Semana Santa in Mérida

image from Yucatan Today
(for a more indepth description of Semana Santa, just
click on the above link to their web site)

Semana Santa, or Holy Week,  is a big deal in Yucatán. In addition to the religious importance of Easter, there is also celebration all around. This is the beginning of the 'beach' season for Yucatecans. Just when most of the US and Canadian snowbirds head for cooler digs, the hundreds of beach bungalows, which have been virtually abandoned for most of the year, welcome the arrival of throngs of people. The beach towns dotting the Gulf Coast come alive with laughter, music, and partying into the wee hours of the morning. This is not exactly our cup of tea any longer and we will likely not venture to the gulf so often during the summer as we prefer walking late afternoons along a mostly deserted beach.

We decided last night to take a stroll down to Parque Santa Lucia, just a few blocks from the house, to pay a visit to the new Dairy Queen. We no longer keep ice cream in our freezer for late night indulgences ( which has most likely contributed greatly to the weight loss for both of us), and DQ has become a once-a-week routine to reward ourselves for not giving in to the temptation to purchase  a half gallon of Blue Bell for more than 150 pesos. So, loathe us all you want, you haters of anything 'American' that has invaded Mexico. Did I mention that only once have we run into another expat sneaking a cone at DQ? The fairly steady stream of patrons are Yucatecans who have discovered that a blizzard or a cona cubierto (chocolate dipped vanilla) is soooo refreshing on a hot evening.

As we turned the corner to the parque, we saw a throng of people silently proceeding down Calle 60 toward the Plaza. Led by a group of priests, these faithful walked in absolute silence fully feeling the significance of their action. It was a moving sight.

Our tummies full, we walked back home, thankful to have found a home in this culturally rich city.
And thankful that DQ is just a short stroll from there.

Here's a Color to Write Home About

I discovered this renovation while taking a peek at a friend's new home several weeks ago. I'm not sure if it's a home or a business, but it's huge and bright lavender. A really lovely facade.

Could this have been a place where horses were once kept?

The building stretches along a good length of the entire block

Not sure how to describe this pediment, but to me it appears to be neoclassical
with a touch of art deco

A Personal Account of Quality Health Care in Mérida

Much has been written on blogs and discussed in forums on the issue of health care in Mexico and, specifically Yucatán. We all know that many people from the United States and Canada come to Mexico for quality and less expensive care. Until you experience it yourself, these testimonials really don't carry much weight. What is one person's good experience can be anothers nightmare. Let me tell you my story of disappointing results from a procedure a little over two years ago in Virginia. I don't usually like to discuss my personal health issues, but I believe that in this case it could help someone who might be having trust issues with the Mexican health care system.

On a routine eye exam, my optometrist discovered that the intra-ocular pressure in both eyes was too high. After monitoring this for a few months, with no change, he referred me to an ophthalmologist who specialized in this condition. I was given a prescription for eye drops to lower the intra-ocular pressure. The side effect was dilation of the pupil for a couple of hours in the morning and again at night. This interfered greatly with my work, which consisted of being in front of a computer for the better part of the day. After a few months of this, I was told that a solution would be to perform the same surgery for removing cataracts, although I did not have sufficient cataract advance to warrant the surgery at the time. However, it would be needed eventually and this surgery could (and I stress could) result in a lowering of the intra-ocular pressure. The surgery entailed removing the natural lenses and implanting artificial lenses, a very common and low risk procedure. I agreed and selected a newer type accommodating lens, which just means that one lens is for distance and the other for near vision. I was told that my vision would not be perfect, but that I would probably no longer need glasses except for reading fine print.

To make a long story shorter, I had the surgery and recovered well and quickly. I was told that it is common for this type surgery to produce scar tissue after a period of time. This will cause some blurred vision and can be remedied with a quick laser procedure. Sure enough, after about six months, my right eye (the one with the near vision lens) became blurry. I like my vision to be clear and sharp so I went in for the laser procedure. The blurriness improved a bit, but gradually returned and became even worse. I was told, simply, that the Cristalens brand that I had implanted was not yet perfected and that I would just have to live with the blurred vision, which seemed more like an oily film coating my eye.

Fast-forward to Mérida. I needed to have my eyes checked so I found an ophthalmologist, specializing in cataract and corneal transplant surgery, with an office at Alta Brisa. Dr. Alejandro Claros Bustamante, a young physician in practice with his father, provided a thorough examination and consultation. He even asked his father to take a look at my eyes. The opinion was that some vitreous humor was leaking and coating the lens, thus causing the blurriness. I was told that a quick procedure called a vitrectomy could be performed which would eliminate the problem.

Two weeks later, I had the surgery and have had amazing results. The blurriness is completely gone and I can see clearly for the first time in almost two years. I'm not sure why the doctors in Virginia never considered that this could be the problem. It seems that they have only about 5 minutes of time to consult with you after a technician has performed all the tests. You wait one to two hours past your appointment time, are served coffee and cookies to make up for this long wait, then rushed out with a polite handshake. This is the unfortunate state of health care in the United States.

I'm so happy I found my doctor in Mérida.

Is the Honeymoon Over?

It is said that retirement can be one of the major stressors in life, toward the bottom of the list behind such catastrophes as death of a spouse, divorce, and jail time. I would probably include moving to a foreign country in the top ten. Everyone, of course, sees this as an amazing adventure which creates joy and a sense of freedom.  It does do that, but such a major change can wreak havoc with one's health. Soon after arriving in Mérida, Alan came down with a head cold which turned into cough and congestion that lingered for weeks. Shortly after that, I contracted a very annoying gastrointestinal bug which stayed with me for more than a week, necessitating a course of antibiotics. A few weeks ago Alan had an infected finger which stubbornly required two courses of antibiotics. We have yet to figure out how or why that happened and can only suppose that his digging in the garden played a roll. Then it was my turn for the head cold which, thankfully, lasted only a few days. All this to say, if you are in the process of such a move or even contemplating a major life change, be prepared. Your body will, most likely, resist such change with a (hopefully) small catastrophe of its own.

I believe that most of the expats who find themselves in the Yucatán, and Mérida in particular, come here with star-studded eyes, lured by the slightly European feel of the city and the lasting intrigue that Mexico offers. But what happens when the stars fade, leaving the harsh reality of crumbling sidewalks littered with carelessly tossed trash or the contents of a neighbor's garbage bag strewn about by a starving cat looking for an elusive meal?  Or the harsher reality of a city and culture not enamored with dogs and the glares received when seen walking your dog? In Mérida, or so it seems, dogs are to be sequestered in the home, not walked or exercised, and definitely not socialized. This has been a stressor, not for our two dogs, but for their sensitive owners who want more than anything to not be seen as rude or arrogant extranjeros. We occasionally see another expat walking their animals and I wonder if they feel the same tenseness at what was once a relaxing exercise for both dog and owner. Because there are no green spaces in our neighborhood (or our back yard), we go out armed, not only with our little plastic poop bags, but also a squirt bottle full of water for rinsing off the light pole or the sidewalk. For now, this is all that we can do. Still, a part of me wants to meet that glare with a smile and a statement. Esta es mi ciudad ahora, también! This is my city now, also.

Are we disillusioned, wondering what could we have possibly thought moving to Mérida? We certainly visited the city enough times to know that it is not the paradise that some chorus. What drew us here was an opportunity to experience and integrate into a fascinating and sometimes enigmatic culture. Understanding it all doesn't happen overnight and sometimes requires stepping into unfamiliar situations and even making mistakes. We will never feel integrated if we hide ourselves inside the confines of an expat enclave. That doesn't mean that we will avoid friendships with other expats. As newcomers to this country we need the advice and friendship of fellow expats to help us navigate through the sometimes frustrating bureaucracies, and perhaps along the way we will forge lasting friendships with a few.

The honeymoon might be ending soon but, hopefully,  the relationship will continue to grow and blossom.

The Daily Grind...

If you Google 'daily grind', you'll get multiple sites for coffee shops and cafes. I chose to title this post as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the flexible and spontaneous routine of a retired person living the dream in the Yucatán. But, now that I think about it, we do begin our day with a cup or two of French press or, if we can't wait for the water to boil,  pop a capsule into the Nespresso machine and froth a bit of San Marcos semi for a latte. This actually takes place after we have walked and fed the dogs and cat. They come first. Always.

Next is a quick check of email and phone messages. I'm not sure why I check for phone messages because, to my knowledge, no one has left a voice message on our Amigo plan. That's a pay-as-you-go phone and data plan through Telcel. If there is anyone out there locally that has my cell number, would you please call and leave a message? Just be sure to call after midnight so that I will not automatically answer the phone. We'll consider this a test of my Amigo plan.

Once I've caught up on Facebook, checked my Blog roll for new posts, satisfied myself with news of the world,  and probably put on a load of wash, it's time for lunch. My God, where did the morning go? Are we going to snack, make some lunch, or run out to one of our favorite lunch spots? Whatever we decide, once we've eaten, it's time for a little more web surfing, reading, or a siesta. Every few days we will make a trip to the market, the grocery store or to Home Depot for a new dimmer switch to replace the one that has fried due to the fluctuating electrical grid that is Mexico. Once that is completed it is just about time for the late afternoon dog walk. My God, where did the afternoon go?

In between all this strenuous work we have managed to add soil to our little garden plots, plant a few new tropical specimens, keep our somewhat large pool sparkling clean, and make arrangements to ship our motor home back to the dealer in Florida from whom we purchased and who eagerly agreed to buy it back for a sum substantially less than what we paid. This last task involved a consultation with our favorite Yucatecan attorney, two visits to Hacienda (which turned out to be totally unnecessary), coordination with the shipping company and a United States custom broker, and multiple forms which had to be completed, scanned, and emailed. Oh, and money.

The upside to our visit to the Port of Progreso was that we had a mini-tour of this quaint gulf-side city as well as the vintage cottage, just steps from the beach, that is owned by our attorney. We also got to drive out to the very tip of the 8-kilometer bridge where we waited for almost two hours for the final inspection of the van before we said our farewell and gave thanks for our safe passage through Mexico.

It is a relief to have sent the motor home back to the US where, hopefully, someone else will make good use of it. After traveling through Mexico we decided that weekend excursions in a 20 foot van would simply not be that enjoyable. Also, motor homes are like large boats which require constant maintenance and, at least in the Centro, there is no covered parking that will accommodate this size vehicle. We accomplished our goal of moving to Mérida with our animals while avoiding the cramped confines of a car or the torture of shipping them by air cargo. After all, we were only kidding ourselves because we are both truly homebodies. An occasional travel adventure can be fun, but then it is always good to get back home where we can just putz around. Besides, even something as mundane as grocery shopping can be an adventure in Mérida.

Settling in to the Daily Routine...

We moved into our home, for good, at approximately 4:00 PM on Sunday, October 20th. We've owned our house four months shy of 3 years, and in that time our longest stay was 10 days. We've been here for 10 weeks now and we honestly don't know where the days go. We have a routine that has existed for almost twenty-five years which revolves around our animals. We awake around 7:00 AM  (much earlier when we were working stiffs), take the dogs for a 20 minute walk, return home, prepare their breakfast as well as the cat's, and have our own coffee and breakfast. Now that we are retired, instead of heading off to work, we generally check our email, our phones for any messages (not that we get very many), and our Face Book pages to keep up with what everyone in our small world has experienced in the past 24 hours -like viewing a photo of their breakfast, a picture of their children or a quote that has inspired them . It's comforting knowing that our friends actually eat!  Now that it's winter in the Yucatán, our daily morning swims have ceased because the pool water is a tad too cold. If we do something around the house that causes us to sweat profusely (which is mostly everything) a dip in the pool can be refreshing after first plunging in and vocalizing a loud #&%* (insert your favorite word here). We've never had a pool before, so we are meticulous about skimming, checking chlorine and pH levels, filtering, circulating, and backwashing. Actually, the filtration system is on a timer but we have to manually do the other things. This takes about an hour which includes standing back and admiring how clean and sparkling the water looks. Once a week we vacuum the bottom, being careful not to fall in while managing the 15-meter hose attached to the telescoping pole with a vacuum attachment on the end. This is not at all like our Dyson, which we regrettably left behind.

The little Klobenz we purchased at Liverpool (or was it Sears/Say-Arz?) manages, but really does not have the power to remove six months of el Centro dust that has infiltrated the sofa we purchased last April. The Yucatecan house cleaners are pretty good at beating the dust out, then brushing it away with a clean cloth.  Most seem to avoid anything electric which is understandable with the cost of electricity in Mexico.

So, after ten weeks in Mérida, are we comfortable, happy, and settling in? Definitely happy and comfortable enough for this stage of our transition.There are almost daily adventures for the most mundane chores, and although some trigger a bit of anxiety at times, we are learning our way around on our own and communicating well enough with our basic Spanish to accomplish our tasks. We try to study an hour each day and will likely begin private lessons soon.

Happy New Year / Feliz Año Nuevo

Update: We conquered an algae bloom in the pool, which followed a heavy rain and easing up a bit on the chlorine. Now I understand why the pool man kept it super-chlorinated. I don't like swimming in chlorine, but algae is worse.

Our Arrival in Mérida....Now What?

We drove straight from Palenque to Progreso on a Saturday. We wanted to take the dogs to a beach for some much needed exercise and for all of us to breathe some salty air after such a long journey on what seemed like endless pavement. Besides, there were guests in our Mérida home for the last night of their vacation and we couldn't exactly crash there. In the three years of being home owners in the Yucatán, we had never ventured to the Gulf shores, spending all of our precious few days in the Centro exploring our soon-to-be forever home. As we neared the shore, we veered to the East and headed toward San Benito and San Crisanto where we had browsed a few lovely beach homes on various real estate sites. There is a natural pull to the ocean or gulf waters for both of us. I grew up an easy hour's drive to the beautiful Gulf of Mexico beaches of the Florida Panhandle, and Alan a stone's throw from Long Island Sound. We lived a block from the beach in Florida for six years and then for 25 years in Virginia, a 20 minute drive to the Atlantic Ocean. We enjoy the vibrancy of urban living, but it is comforting at times to be near an ocean. I could never live in the heartland of the United States, where water is something you drink or bathe in and where you can drive all day to find a lake or stream.

The beaches were all but deserted as we headed down the narrow paved beach road. The little sandy lanes that lead to the water's edge seemed too narrow for our monstrous van. I was afraid of getting buried to the axle in beach sand so we kept driving. Approaching the small gulf village of Telchac Puerto, we followed the signs that took us into the heart of this quaint little town. After receiving a few stares at this oddity of a vehicle, we parked on a sandy lane right on the beach in front of vacant beach houses waiting for the onslaught of next summer's inhabitants. This seemed like a quiet place, sufficiently out of the way of people who might be annoyed by the sound of a running generator. The dogs were ecstatic over an open beach on which to run and explore the smells that were somehow different from those of the Chesapeake Bay.

We walked on the beach, enjoyed the sunset and spent the night right where we parked. The next morning we explored a bit more, found a couple of the homes we had seen for sale, then headed to the Centro where Remixto had our home clean and stocked with fresh flowers, fruit, Charritos (our favorite), and sparkling water. It was so very nice to finally be home.

This blog has been all about getting here -to all the colores de Mérida and the mysterious draw of this sometimes puzzling yet comfortable city in the Yucatán, whose intractable heat either wins you over or defeats you. Maybe I'll write about our daily struggles and triumphs, or perhaps the blog will become another photographic endeavor (if I can overcome my frustration with not being able to capture the perfect image). And then, it could be time to put this away and just live...

A Sweltering Day in Palenque

Beginning the steep climb

As we drove out of Orizaba, we again were amazed at the beauty of this part of Mexico. The plan was to head for Villahermosa, the last stop before a planned side trip to Palenque, Chiapas and the final leg of the trip to Mérida. We would drive until dusk, stop for the night, and drive down to Palenque. There is a camp site for motor homes near the ruins and we decided that we could stay overnight  if there was a vacant spot. We were getting tired from the long driving days and sensed that the dogs were about as ready as we were end the nomadic journey and settle in to a real house.  We had no clear destination for a stopping point near Villahermosa and chose to find a hotel if possible. Our stopping point ended up being a Pemex station on the outskirts of a small town whose name I cannot remember. Say what you will about sleeping in a motor home in a gas station parking lot, but I can say that it is actually very quiet and safe. Several large trucks are usually parked for part or all of the night in order for the tired drivers to take a break from the road. We asked for permission to stay and the attendant nodded his approval. It was indeed a quiet night, especially with the generator running, and sleeping in the air conditioned camper was restful. Early the next morning, after walking the dogs in a convenient grass spot next to the parking area, we began the less than two hour drive to Palenque. After driving through the small town and as we approached the national park there was an entrance road where we paid a small fee for who knows what. There were no signs, just an attendant collecting the money. We drove a bit further and found what looked like a visitor's information building. There were a number of people, mostly American or European tourists sitting at tables smoking and drinking soft drinks. There were, once again, no signs with information as to what to do or where to go to see the ruins. We spotted a palapa structure down the road and headed in that direction. There we were told that we must go back to the museum to purchase tickets. After walking back for the tickets and to the palapa hut again, we presented our tickets and were motioned to enter the trail leading to who knows where. There were a few signs along the trail explaining the various parts of the Mayan community -communal areas, living areas, etc. We took the first route which climbed to one area, then climbed to another, and on and on. It was hot and 100% humidity -not a good combination for two out of shape gringos.

Steps that lead to what might have been a communal plaza

We really did not know where these trails ended, only that we were getting higher and higher with no end in sight. We had hoped that at some point we would emerge to see the grand pyramids of Palenque. When we thought we could not go another level higher, we saw a couple of park employees and asked where we could see the pyramids. One of the men motioned in a direction as in "over there." We headed back down and concluded that the other trail was the one we wanted. By now we were both out of breath, soaking wet, and tired.

Waterfall

We continued on, however, stopping to rest with the hope that neither of us would pass out. It was so steamy my glasses were fogged over, so I removed them and carefully placed them on a nearby boulder while I attempted to take a photo. By this time we were both utterly exhausted, disappointed that we had not seen the pyramids, and though neither of us verbalized it, were ready to leave. We got almost all the way back down to the entrance and suddenly I realized that I had left my glasses on the boulder back up the mountain. Horrified, I had no choice but to turn around and will myself to make the climb once again. To make a long story short, I retrieved my glasses, made it back down, joined Alan and headed to the van. We literally peeled off our clothes and collapsed as the dogs, in air conditioned comfort, ecstatically wagged their tales at our return.

Back down off the mountain, we saw a small sign that we had not noticed before. It indicated that the pyramids were a mile or so down the road. At this point, I could not have cared less. We rested a bit, cranked the van and headed for Mérida.

Palenque...we'll see you another time.

Laredo

We did not know what to expect - traffic, long lines, agents rummaging through all the cabinets and drawers in our stuffed-to-over-capacity van, or worse, being told that we did not have all the necessary documents or that we couldn't cross with two dogs and a cat. I had learned through a popular RV forum that the Columbia Bridge crossing (the third of three bridges at Laredo) was best for motor homes. Some on the forum agreed and others said they did not like that particular crossing. We decided that we would go with Columbia, and after a forgettable night in Laredo, approached the border at 8:30 AM on a gray Monday. Surprisingly, there was only one other vehicle headed our way and a young lady waved us to the stopping point. Alan leashed the dogs and took them outside while she entered the van for a brief look, not bothering to check for any suspicious items we might be trying to sneak in. She then asked for the papers from the veterinarian certifying that all were properly vaccinated, gave them a cursory glance and then motioned that we could proceed. I got back in the van, looked at Alan as if to say "is that it?"and then realized that we still needed the temporary import sticker for the van.

Inside the building were windows for Migración, Aduana and Banjercito. There were no instructions for where to begin, and after glancing around as if lost, someone pointed to the Migración entrance. The agent asked for my passport and handed me two forms to complete. I completed the forms, which were suspiciously like the tourist forms you fill out when flying, and handed them to him. He studied them for a minute, then said we must return in 180 days. Oh, no, no. I took my passport and opened it to the 30-day Residente Temporal Visa, showed it to him, and then had to fill out another form. I swear it was the same form I had just given him. Now he tells me I have 30 days in which to get to Migración for the permanent visa card. Relieved, I motioned for Alan to come to the counter to complete his forms.

We then headed to Banjercito to  obtain the 10- year Temporary Vehicle Permit, which is a special permit for motor homes. It allows unlimited crossings for 10 years. After four years, however, we must obtain the Residente Permanente cards and will no longer be able to have a foreign vehicle in Mexico.
We will cross that bridge when we get there.

Immensely relieved, we climbed in the van and headed south toward Monterrey and Nuevo Laredo, that city famous for shootouts and other ghastly cartel shenanigans.


Next...Saltillo, Coahuila

The Journey Begins...

Plugged-in at brother-in-law's home in
Houston

After a rather lengthy blogging sabbatical, I figured the least I could do would be to write about our adventures along the way as we make our way from Norfolk, Virginia to Mérida. The last few months have been busy with deciding what we would take with us and what to leave behind, with packing and multiple trips to Goodwill. There were also countless large black garbage bags lining the street in front of our house, filled with things that would likely fail the "one man's junk, another man's treasure" cliché. Because this is a new beginning, we chose to leave most of our accumulated belongings for others to enjoy. Other than a few cherished paintings, our favorite cookware, some kitchen gadgets, and clothes, we are coming to Mexico with our two dogs and cat in a 20 foot motor home.

We began our trip on Wednesday, October 9, in a heavy rain. It seemed that we would never get the last item loaded. We had planned on leaving around 9:00 AM. We drove away at noon. There was a tremendous feeling of relief, that even though our home is still unsold, no longer will we have to rush to clean the house and make it presentable for a showing. It was difficult and tiring to keep the house clean with two large, active dogs around. Our realtor is baffled as to why our home has not sold, and he recently had an open house for 30 area Realtors. The feedback was all positive, including affirmation that the price is where it should be. We have a great home in a desirable neighborhood, so it will sell eventually.

Our two dogs have never been on a car trip lasting more than half an hour. We had no idea what difficulties traveling together for such an extended time would bring. To our amazement, the dogs settled in between our seats, competing for the fully reclined position or the cramped one, and slept quietly for the entire day. Occasionally, a rough road or series of bumps would bring them to their feet, but then they settled down once again. We stopped frequently that first day, for water and bathroom .

Mr. Jules, our little orange Manx, cried for the first few miles, but he then also settled in, burrowing under a quilt on the bed or sitting on a hammock of sorts we fashioned from the collapsible nylon and mesh crate suspended between the two twin beds in back. He could see out the side and back windows and seemed content seeing more of the world in one day than in his entire 6 years.

We spent that first night parked in a huge parking lot in a beautiful North Carolina rest area, illegally, but no one ran us off. There were a few other cars parked nearby and the parking area was well lit.
A great night's sleep, with cool breezes which turned a bit chilly toward morning, rested all of us for the drive to Atlanta.

Moving to Mexico is an Adventure....Right?

Moving from one location to another is always work, but divesting of almost everything from a current life, except for a few clothes and fewer household goods, is both exhilarating and daunting. If the move is to Mexico, it must be approached with a sense of adventure. Otherwise, a multitude of somewhat confusing bureaucratic obstacles could be overwhelming.



The above statement was my Facebook post a few days ago. Let me attempt to explain what I meant. When we made the decision about a year ago to finally make the permanent move to Mérida this September, we thought the plan was fairly simple and straightforward. We would put our house on the market, have an estate sale to empty our home of over thirty years of accumulated furniture and household goods that we had no intention of taking with us, load our motor home with a few clothes and our animals and drive away. The gently used 2004 motor home we purchased last summer is our solution for driving across the country and through Mexico to our home in Mérida. We had planned to import the vehicle in order to obtain Mexican plates in the hope that we would not stand out so much. Never mind that we have never seen a single 20 foot motor home during any of our visits. I recently contacted a customs broker in Laredo to get a quote for the importation. Needless to say, we will not be importing this vehicle at an estimated cost of a bit over $11,000.00 US. For that amount of money we can purchase a small car once we are settled in Mérida. On the other hand, that sum would likely purchase a lifetime of bus tickets and cab fares. It would be nice, however, to have a car for those times when we ...well, need a car. 

Our plan for visas has changed as well. With the new immigration law, we were thinking that we would apply for the Residente Permanente, a one time deal with no annoying yearly renewals. If we were to import the vehicle, the permanent visa would not be an issue. However, since we will now be driving a foreign-plated van, we can only cross the border with the Residente Temporal and after four years, when we will be required to obtain the permanent visa, we will have to take the van back NOB. The ironic thing about this rule is that motor homes are assigned a 10-year temporary import permit (TIP) and the Residente Temporal is only good for 4 years. 

Another thing that we are discovering (thanks to Mexico Amigos) is that if you plan to ship household goods to your new home in Mérida, be prepared to pay storage fees until you have your actual visa card in hand. The paperwork from Immigration will not get your goods released. People have reported waits of 4 to 6 weeks while their furniture sits crated on the pier (in the hot sun?). Another option would be to store the goods NOB and ship once the visa card is in hand. As I've said before, we only plan to ship a few paintings and a few small household goods, but I don't like the idea of oil paintings sitting on a pallet at the pier in Progreso. We now have to explore our other options.

It seems that everyone reporting their experiences with Immigration or Aduana has a slightly different take on the process. Purchasing a home in Mérida is the easy part. Getting there is not so easy, but all an adventure, no?
  

Step aside Starbucks...

There is an up and coming purveyor of fine coffee in Mexico - Cielito Querido, a Mexico City upstart with a vision for future expansion to other cities in Mexico and the United States. As if to say to Starbucks, don't think you can best our heritage of world class coffee, they print a bold snub on their to-go cups that says "Aquí, le decimos chico, no alto." Here, we say small, not tall." (Thanks for the translation correction, Theresa.)  Their motto is "not on every corner, but in every neighborhood." Mérida is not mentioned in their list of expansion sites, although Cancun and Puebla are slated. Cancun... that resort city where droves swoop in to get sloshed on Margaritas and fry their bodies in the Caribbean sun.With prices running higher than Starbucks for a standard cup of coffee, I suppose they see Cancun as a safer bet. I'm not sure why I'm disappointed that our fair city is not on the list. There are plenty of places for a great expresso. The wonderful Cafe La bohème is an easy walk from our house and Ki' Xocolatl is just  a short stroll to the central plaza area. Any number of restaurants serve a decent cup of post dinner coffee or expresso. Or an invite to dine at home with these guys, who have a monster expresso machine in their kitchen! And, in a pinch, well... there's always Starbucks.

*Top Ten Reasons to Move to Mérida...

10.  US Politics

 9.   US Politics

 8.   US Politics

 7.   US Politics

 6.   US Politics

 5.   US Politics

 4.   US Politics

 3.   US Politics

 2.   US Politics    and (drum roll)...

 1.   Mérida,Yucatán is Awesome!


*I would like to say that this will be my last political rant but, sadly, I'm not making any promises.

A Garage Sale in Mérida ...

We've been gradually eliminating some of the furniture we inherited (purchased) with Casa de las Lechuzas and replacing with pieces more in line with our tastes.  At times we have thought that we wanted to move to a more contemporary look after over 30 years of living in a house full of antiques and traditional furniture, but we always end up being drawn to the traditional.The previous owners of our home did an admirable job of decorating, using modern pieces and interspersing with a couple of antique painted and decorated Chinese cabinets. Their art works, which were mostly abstract or modern, did not remain with the house. About the only personal belongings we will bring to Mérida are some of our paintings. For that reason we have purchased very little art for the house. Other than a wonderful oil on canvas by a Cuban artist purchased at SoHo Galleries, there are a few inexpensive prints currently adorning our walls.

This trip we wanted to get some comfortable furniture for the studio/media room, but before having it delivered we needed to eliminate two rather large ultra-suede corner chaise lounges. Enter Yucatán Online Garage Sale, a Facebook site originated by TheYucatán Times. I took some quick photos, logged in to the site and easily posted the items for sale. Within less than an hour I was messaged by a potential buyer, who dropped by to see the furniture, paid cash on the spot and returned the next morning to pick up. I have, at various times, seen individual items and what appears to be the entire contents of a house for sale. It's quick and easy to find something you might like or to sell an item you no longer need.

A Busy Week

This trip to Casa de La Lechuzas has been interesting and busy. A lot has been done, but new ideas about future possibilities with the house have us dreaming again. It hasn't been all work, however. We've managed to eat dinner at two new restaurants and have enjoyed Rescoldo's twice. I repeat myself when I say that I could live off their Greek salads and thick, warm, open oven-baked pita. Add a side of tzatziki and roasted red pepper hummus and I'm in heaven. The cooling effect of cucumbers, strained yogurt, mint, dill and Greek olives makes Mediterranean food perfect for this hot climate.  The ever changing gelato flavors are not to be missed -Toasted Coconut, Cranberry Almond, Dulce de Leche, or Honey Lavender. Lavender flavored gelato, you say? Delicious. Now, if we can just find a great Thai and Indian restaurant, we will be happy.

On the work side, we have accomplished a few tasks with many more remaining after we are gone and just before we arrive in September. Painting will be completed, pasta tiles polished to a spit shine and electrical issues will, hopefully, be resolved. The electrician wants to investigate further and probably redo some of the lines. It is nothing major, but annoying things like dimmers not working. The configuration of outlets is confusing and we still have to press one toggle switch after another to turn on the lights that we want. We would like to simplify the operation. It's tough getting older.

Did I mention that it has been a bit warm in Mérida this week? We have enjoyed the pool this trip much more than other times. For once, it is being maintained properly and the heat has made the water temperature comfortable. The pool is fairly large and warms up slowly but seems to cool down quickly after the sun goes down. A swim just before midnight last night was relaxing and refreshing.

We managed to meet a few new friends and neighbors as well as seeing an old friend. Our stay finally coincided with that of these two guys, both extremely nice and comfortable to be around. One is a deep Southerner like me, the other with an unmistakable accent from a land far down under and away. Then, there was a neighbor from around the corner ( a reader of this blog) who stopped by for a nice chat and with whom we hope to have many more conversations. Finally, we met a new Facebook friend with an opinion (his words).

More to come...

Update on 'So much to do'- Mexican Embassy

After an e-mail to the Mexican Consulate requesting information on the documentation we need for our  visa applications, and two missed phone calls, I spoke with the agent in charge. Her first question was to find out if we planned to work in Mérida. Upon informing her that my partner and I would be retiring, she asked if we were married. If not, then we would be required to apply for separate visas.

Here is the list of documents needed for the application, which I believe is for the Visa Permanente, not the Visa Temporal.

• Fill out the visa application form.
• Apply at the Consular Section in person, Monday-Friday, except holidays.
• Original passport and one copy of the pages containing personal information, photograph of bearer, expiration date and extensions.
• One front view color passport size photo, without eyeglasses and with white background.
• Original and copy of the document that proves that the applicant is a legal resident in the USA if he/she is a foreigner.
• Payment of the consular fee: $36.00 (Exact change, Visa or Mastercard).
• Proof of economic solvency:  Original and copy of documents showing that the applicant has a bank account or investments with a balance of at least $119,865.00 US dollars after taxes during the previous 12 months,  OR,  Original and copy of documents showing that the applicant has had a pension or monthly income of $2,500.00 US dollars after taxes during the previous 6 months.

This sounds reasonable as opposed to some reports of having to provide odd-size passport photos and letters from the state police verifying no criminal record, etc, etc. There was no mention of property

ownership in Mexico, so we will be sure to bring copies of our fideicomiso and utility statements.

The only problematic issue with the new immigration laws seems to be the prohibition of foreign plated vehicles. This seems to have quite a few expats scrambling to drive their vehicles out of the country or going through the expensive process of importing their cars using a customs broker and paying the duty tax. 

This is likely what we will have to do because driving down is necessary and it would be ridiculous to enter on a tourist visa just to have a car and then have to exit the country every 6 months. The importation fee is a huge chunk of change, but I'm choosing to look at it this way. It will cost us about the same amount we pay in Virginia property taxes each year. The import tax is a one time deal.

So much to do...

With our home in Virginia now actively on the market, we must turn our eyes toward the necessary steps to get us ready to actually pack the van with a few tropical weight clothes, our two dogs and cat, and head out for Mérida. The immigration laws have changed since we began this journey and although we can't foresee any problems, we must make a few decisions about how we will proceed.

First, we will need to visit the nearest Mexican consulate and apply for the Temporary Resident Visa. Once in Mexico, we then will have 30 days in which to go to Immigration to get the 'permanent' Temporary Visa. If I read the new regulations correctly, it is possible to apply for the Permanent Resident Visa immediately if retired and possessing sufficient income. Under the old regulations you had to have the FM3 for 5 years before getting the FM2. I think the key here is retirement and home ownership in Mexico.

All of the new rules relating to pension income, investment income, and property ownership are still a bit murky at this point. Our property in Mérida is owned jointly and the fideicomiso reflects this.  The question is: How do we sort this all out, divvy it up, and leave the US with both of us carrying the appropriate visa?  Can we call the Mexican Consulate and get an answer or do we have to have it all sorted out before we visit them? And exactly what papers and how many copies do we need to bring with us? I've sent an e-mail (in Spanish) to the Mexican Consulate in Washington, D.C. We'll see what they have to say. I've heard that different consulates require different documentation, one even requiring a letter from the state police certifying that there is no prior arrest record. Neither of us should have any worry there. I also hear that current expats are experiencing long waits and multiple visits to renew their visas. It would be really nice if we could get everything done with just one visit to Washington. It's a 3.5 hour drive or 4 hour train ride from our home. I'm trying to approach this process with patience. The same patience we will certainly need once in Mexico and that we need now for the selling of our home

Mérida - One of the World's Most Underrated Cities...

 This is from a 2011 article in Travel & Leisure Magazine. One of 26 cities throughout the world T& L has named underrated, Mérida, Yucatán shares the honor with a few well known places, such as Philadelphia and Denver, Bordeaux, France and Valencia, Spain, as well as a number of less well known cities like Durban, South Africa and Nara, Japan.  Other cities in the southern hemisphere include Montevideo, Uruguay and Valparaíso, Chile.

It's not likely that we will ever make a trip to South Africa or Nara, Japan, but Uruguay and Chile are certainly in the realm of possibilities, when we soon make our permanent home in Mérida.

Two Men's Junk ...

We were up at 6:00 AM Saturday morning, setting up tables for a Yard Sale for items that did not find a home when we had the estate sale a few weeks ago. This set-up was a whole lot easier than the previous 3 day event and our expectations were not nearly as high. At yard sales, people want a $10.00 wine glass for 50 cents and a Cuisinart stainless steel coffee maker priced at $15.00 for, obviously much less, because it didn't sell.  There were the really nice margarita glasses priced at $1.00 each that no one wanted. The 27 inch iMac with a crashed hard drive actually sold very quickly. I'm certain we had that way under priced. Things like a partially used table top candle went for 25 cents and a zip-lock bag full of never used greeting cards for 50 cents. Who knew anyone still mails greeting cards in this age of e-Cards with singing elves? Hardback books at 50 cents seemed to be the most popular item and we sold dozens.

The quite chilly morning (a little late in the season for such an event) and the still poor economy failed to deliver the usual throngs waiting in line for the sale to begin. I sat outside, in my blue fleece hoodie, from 9 AM until 2 PM, and with Alan's help we disposed of miscellaneous items that had been crammed into closets and chests of drawers for decades. When the sale ended, I boxed and bagged the leftovers and waited for the truck from Victory Home to take the items back to their thrift shop.

I can't tell you how good it feels to have all that 'stuff' gone. I feel that starting this process several months in advance of the actual move is far less stressful than a last minute purge. It will be quite easy to get out of the house once it sells. We have just enough furniture remaining to meet our needs, and there will be no packing countless boxes to move to another location.

To wind down, on Sunday afternoon we took the dogs to an almost deserted beach to frolic in the sand for a while, much to their delight. We then brushed off the sand, climbed into the motor home, fetched a few tacos from the Taco Bell across the street and settled in for a nap. I think our pups actually like their new little home.

Boondocking Across Mexico

Years ago I fantasized about driving across the United States in a nice, comfortable motorhome visiting all the sites we have never seen, travelling slowly and aimlessly to wherever the winds blew us. Alas, there was very little time, with busy careers, to nourish this fantasy and it eventually died. This was, of course, all pre-Mexico.  I never really considered us to be "RV" people, but the thought of an extended trip exploring all the nooks and crannies seemed like a nice adventure, if a bit unrealistic for two people who, shall we say, favor slightly posher accommodations.  We went through a phase of tent camping a few years back and I must say that I love a campfire, but sleeping on hard, cold, damp earth is not for me. A nice little cabin in the woods with a decent bed is somewhat better, but a slick hotel or interesting B & B with unlimited restaurants nearby is supreme. No worry of ticks and chiggers which are rampant in our neck of the woods.

Now, remember how Alan and I (well.... mostly I) have anguished over how we will get ourselves and our animals to Mérida? Problem solved. No more relying on the empty promise of a Tampa ferry. No more dreading the thought of transporting our "kids" in a cargo hold that would probably take a year off their already short lives. Well, we still dread driving through the border area, but I've read all the RV forums and it seems that dozens of people do it every day with no problems. I figure having two dogs, who can be aggressive when they perceive that we are being threatened, can't hurt.

The solution? Well, I have to take credit for this brilliant idea. When thinking of driving with our two dogs and the cat in our Ford Escape, with a minimum of eight days on the road, it just seemed impossible without keeping them all heavily sedated. I started reading an RV forum and had the idea that a Class B motorhome would be ideal. They are fully contained, with two captain's chairs, an enclosed toilet and shower, a kitchen area with sink,  small refrigerator,  space for an induction cooktop, and a sleeping area with two twins which can fold out to a King bed. All this is on a gas-guzzling Ford E-350 Van chassis, that is only 20 feet long and fits in most any parking space. It doesn't need to be leveled, and can be hooked up to a campground's electricity when not using the generator fueled by the 35-gallon gas tank.

2004 Pleasure-Way

When Alan came on board with the idea, we started looking online and were flabbergasted by the sticker price. We soon found that there is a market for used Class B's, which is what most people can afford. We tried E-Bay, Craigslist, and for sale by owner. Most used units are well maintained because anyone who can afford a new one is going to take care of it. We finally found one we liked, and last Wednesday I flew to Gainesville, FL and drove it home. It's a 2004, with only 31,000 miles and looks brand new inside and out. We are thrilled - the dogs could not care less, but they will learn that it is just another of our homes, albeit a small one.

Within a few months after we arrive in Mérida, the vehicle will be 10 years old and, if we were told correctly by Girl Friday, we should be able to nationalize it with our FM3's. If anyone can verify this, we would appreciate a comment. Other's have said we need the FM2.

Also, we will be able to make short boondocking trips ( check out  this blog - I met Chris through the RV forum and have had a few nice e-mail chats with him) throughout Yucatán and southern Mexico and we won't have to board the dogs. Here's hoping we can find a good, secure spot to park it. It's a tad too large for our garage.