A Sweltering Day in Palenque

Beginning the steep climb

As we drove out of Orizaba, we again were amazed at the beauty of this part of Mexico. The plan was to head for Villahermosa, the last stop before a planned side trip to Palenque, Chiapas and the final leg of the trip to Mérida. We would drive until dusk, stop for the night, and drive down to Palenque. There is a camp site for motor homes near the ruins and we decided that we could stay overnight  if there was a vacant spot. We were getting tired from the long driving days and sensed that the dogs were about as ready as we were end the nomadic journey and settle in to a real house.  We had no clear destination for a stopping point near Villahermosa and chose to find a hotel if possible. Our stopping point ended up being a Pemex station on the outskirts of a small town whose name I cannot remember. Say what you will about sleeping in a motor home in a gas station parking lot, but I can say that it is actually very quiet and safe. Several large trucks are usually parked for part or all of the night in order for the tired drivers to take a break from the road. We asked for permission to stay and the attendant nodded his approval. It was indeed a quiet night, especially with the generator running, and sleeping in the air conditioned camper was restful. Early the next morning, after walking the dogs in a convenient grass spot next to the parking area, we began the less than two hour drive to Palenque. After driving through the small town and as we approached the national park there was an entrance road where we paid a small fee for who knows what. There were no signs, just an attendant collecting the money. We drove a bit further and found what looked like a visitor's information building. There were a number of people, mostly American or European tourists sitting at tables smoking and drinking soft drinks. There were, once again, no signs with information as to what to do or where to go to see the ruins. We spotted a palapa structure down the road and headed in that direction. There we were told that we must go back to the museum to purchase tickets. After walking back for the tickets and to the palapa hut again, we presented our tickets and were motioned to enter the trail leading to who knows where. There were a few signs along the trail explaining the various parts of the Mayan community -communal areas, living areas, etc. We took the first route which climbed to one area, then climbed to another, and on and on. It was hot and 100% humidity -not a good combination for two out of shape gringos.

Steps that lead to what might have been a communal plaza

We really did not know where these trails ended, only that we were getting higher and higher with no end in sight. We had hoped that at some point we would emerge to see the grand pyramids of Palenque. When we thought we could not go another level higher, we saw a couple of park employees and asked where we could see the pyramids. One of the men motioned in a direction as in "over there." We headed back down and concluded that the other trail was the one we wanted. By now we were both out of breath, soaking wet, and tired.

Waterfall

We continued on, however, stopping to rest with the hope that neither of us would pass out. It was so steamy my glasses were fogged over, so I removed them and carefully placed them on a nearby boulder while I attempted to take a photo. By this time we were both utterly exhausted, disappointed that we had not seen the pyramids, and though neither of us verbalized it, were ready to leave. We got almost all the way back down to the entrance and suddenly I realized that I had left my glasses on the boulder back up the mountain. Horrified, I had no choice but to turn around and will myself to make the climb once again. To make a long story short, I retrieved my glasses, made it back down, joined Alan and headed to the van. We literally peeled off our clothes and collapsed as the dogs, in air conditioned comfort, ecstatically wagged their tales at our return.

Back down off the mountain, we saw a small sign that we had not noticed before. It indicated that the pyramids were a mile or so down the road. At this point, I could not have cared less. We rested a bit, cranked the van and headed for Mérida.

Palenque...we'll see you another time.

Sights along the way to Uxmal

View from the hilltop

Our half day excursion to Uxmal began shortly before 1:00 PM last Thursday. Our driver, Jorge, arrived a bit late because his pick up ticket said Calle 47, not 47-A. Directions to our one-block-long street seem to confuse taxi drivers and others. I always try to tell them to take Calle 49 to Calle 64, turn right and then the first left. Speaking our address in español is a mouthful. It goes something like this: Buenos dias/tardes or buenas noches, por favor, Calle cuarenta y siete-A, quinientos dos-G, entre sesenta y cuatro y sesenta y seis. I've managed to learn to speak this fairly rapidly, but I'm beginning to think that my Virginia accent either confuses or amuses the drivers.

Jorge explained that the Ruta Puuc  (Puuc means hills) is so named because this area has some of the few hills in Yucatán. On the way to Uxmal we stopped briefly at a Maya rest stop (of sorts). On our next trip we will, hopefully, visit a few of the pueblos.

Another hilltop view

"Owl" House   - baños 5 pesos

An Afternoon in Uxmal

Templo del Adivino

We spent Thursday afternoon visiting Uxmal, Ochil, and Yaxcopoil. Trekking through Uxmal in the early afternoon can drain your energy very quickly. Next time I will go in the early morning for better light. The site closes at 5PM, which is when the best light begins. None the less, we got some good shots. Alan has my older camera and has really taken some great photos. I'm still working on learning the ropes with my new camera. With the newer digital cameras, if you have a poor exposure, blame the photographer not the camera.

Stay tuned for a few shots from Hacienda Ochil and Hacienda Yaxcopoil.

Templo del Adivino -side view

Detail of wall

Detail

Detail II

Lone out-building

Belize - a bit British, a bit Mayan, & a lot Caribbean

Toucan- state bird of Belize

While we are dreaming of photographing Chichen Itza, I have my eye on another site for some great photos. Since we are retiring to this corner of the world, I've gained an interest in learning more about our neighbors to the south. Belize, formerly British Honduras, is the only country in Central America where English is the official language, although only a small percentage speaks it as their first language. A small nation-state, Belize has a population of about 333,000 (2010 est.) and is the only nation in the region with a British Colonial Heritage. In fact, Queen Elizabeth is the official head of state and appoints the Governor-General. The British parliamentary system is led by the Prime Minister, who exercises executive authority.

Located approximately 330 miles south of Cancún, Belize is bordered to the north by Mexico, the south and west by Guatemala, and to the east by the Caribbean Sea.  Before Europeans arrived, Belize was occupied by the Maya and there are recovered ruins as well as those still in the jungle.

Mayan ruin in Belize

Of course, there are many other incredible places to see that are in Mexico. It's hard to decide where to go first. If you haven't seen some of the videos produced by Mexico for the bicentennial celebration last year, you should take a look. They are breathtaking. I've linked to them on my blog before, but here is the video for Chiapas. I would like to, one day, post my own photos of this beautiful place. Then there's Veracruz, Sinaloa, Oaxaca....

Chichen Itza - photographer's dream

Google wallpaper image

As I have mentioned before, we have explored very little of Yucatán outside of Mérida proper. It's not that we haven't wanted to see more, but there has been so much to do on each all-too-brief trip. Just learning our way around the Centro and out Paseo de Montejo to the shopping areas has taken up considerable time. When we have stopped to rest, puttering around the house seems to be about all we have managed. However, with my new camera, I can hardly wait for our first visit to Chichen Itza. I am primarily interested in photographing architectural elements and landscapes. For those following this blog who might not be familiar with one of the "new seven wonders of the world," Chichen Itza is a pre-Columbian architectural site built by the Maya civilization. The ruins of this site "exhibit a multitude of architectural styles that are reminiscent of styles seen in central Mexico and the Puuc Maya style of the northern lowlands." The presence of these non-Maya styles is viewed as the result of "cultural diffusion."
But no matter the reason, the details of these ancient ruins are truly eye candy for the photographer.

Google wallpaper image

Chichen Itza ( you can check out Wikipedia for the correct pronunciation) is an easy drive from Mérida. There are tour buses that leave daily from the Centro. I prefer to go by car so that we can take our time, stay as long as we like, photograph until the battery goes dead, and eat somewhere really nice. There is even a much touted hacienda if one chooses to be a bit extravagant, although I'm certain there are multiple quaint and less expensive accommodations. 


Here's hoping my photos will be somewhat better than these "loaned" images.

http://historylink102.com/mesoamerican/index.htm