Our Arrival in Mérida....Now What?

We drove straight from Palenque to Progreso on a Saturday. We wanted to take the dogs to a beach for some much needed exercise and for all of us to breathe some salty air after such a long journey on what seemed like endless pavement. Besides, there were guests in our Mérida home for the last night of their vacation and we couldn't exactly crash there. In the three years of being home owners in the Yucatán, we had never ventured to the Gulf shores, spending all of our precious few days in the Centro exploring our soon-to-be forever home. As we neared the shore, we veered to the East and headed toward San Benito and San Crisanto where we had browsed a few lovely beach homes on various real estate sites. There is a natural pull to the ocean or gulf waters for both of us. I grew up an easy hour's drive to the beautiful Gulf of Mexico beaches of the Florida Panhandle, and Alan a stone's throw from Long Island Sound. We lived a block from the beach in Florida for six years and then for 25 years in Virginia, a 20 minute drive to the Atlantic Ocean. We enjoy the vibrancy of urban living, but it is comforting at times to be near an ocean. I could never live in the heartland of the United States, where water is something you drink or bathe in and where you can drive all day to find a lake or stream.

The beaches were all but deserted as we headed down the narrow paved beach road. The little sandy lanes that lead to the water's edge seemed too narrow for our monstrous van. I was afraid of getting buried to the axle in beach sand so we kept driving. Approaching the small gulf village of Telchac Puerto, we followed the signs that took us into the heart of this quaint little town. After receiving a few stares at this oddity of a vehicle, we parked on a sandy lane right on the beach in front of vacant beach houses waiting for the onslaught of next summer's inhabitants. This seemed like a quiet place, sufficiently out of the way of people who might be annoyed by the sound of a running generator. The dogs were ecstatic over an open beach on which to run and explore the smells that were somehow different from those of the Chesapeake Bay.

We walked on the beach, enjoyed the sunset and spent the night right where we parked. The next morning we explored a bit more, found a couple of the homes we had seen for sale, then headed to the Centro where Remixto had our home clean and stocked with fresh flowers, fruit, Charritos (our favorite), and sparkling water. It was so very nice to finally be home.

This blog has been all about getting here -to all the colores de Mérida and the mysterious draw of this sometimes puzzling yet comfortable city in the Yucatán, whose intractable heat either wins you over or defeats you. Maybe I'll write about our daily struggles and triumphs, or perhaps the blog will become another photographic endeavor (if I can overcome my frustration with not being able to capture the perfect image). And then, it could be time to put this away and just live...

A Sweltering Day in Palenque

Beginning the steep climb

As we drove out of Orizaba, we again were amazed at the beauty of this part of Mexico. The plan was to head for Villahermosa, the last stop before a planned side trip to Palenque, Chiapas and the final leg of the trip to Mérida. We would drive until dusk, stop for the night, and drive down to Palenque. There is a camp site for motor homes near the ruins and we decided that we could stay overnight  if there was a vacant spot. We were getting tired from the long driving days and sensed that the dogs were about as ready as we were end the nomadic journey and settle in to a real house.  We had no clear destination for a stopping point near Villahermosa and chose to find a hotel if possible. Our stopping point ended up being a Pemex station on the outskirts of a small town whose name I cannot remember. Say what you will about sleeping in a motor home in a gas station parking lot, but I can say that it is actually very quiet and safe. Several large trucks are usually parked for part or all of the night in order for the tired drivers to take a break from the road. We asked for permission to stay and the attendant nodded his approval. It was indeed a quiet night, especially with the generator running, and sleeping in the air conditioned camper was restful. Early the next morning, after walking the dogs in a convenient grass spot next to the parking area, we began the less than two hour drive to Palenque. After driving through the small town and as we approached the national park there was an entrance road where we paid a small fee for who knows what. There were no signs, just an attendant collecting the money. We drove a bit further and found what looked like a visitor's information building. There were a number of people, mostly American or European tourists sitting at tables smoking and drinking soft drinks. There were, once again, no signs with information as to what to do or where to go to see the ruins. We spotted a palapa structure down the road and headed in that direction. There we were told that we must go back to the museum to purchase tickets. After walking back for the tickets and to the palapa hut again, we presented our tickets and were motioned to enter the trail leading to who knows where. There were a few signs along the trail explaining the various parts of the Mayan community -communal areas, living areas, etc. We took the first route which climbed to one area, then climbed to another, and on and on. It was hot and 100% humidity -not a good combination for two out of shape gringos.

Steps that lead to what might have been a communal plaza

We really did not know where these trails ended, only that we were getting higher and higher with no end in sight. We had hoped that at some point we would emerge to see the grand pyramids of Palenque. When we thought we could not go another level higher, we saw a couple of park employees and asked where we could see the pyramids. One of the men motioned in a direction as in "over there." We headed back down and concluded that the other trail was the one we wanted. By now we were both out of breath, soaking wet, and tired.

Waterfall

We continued on, however, stopping to rest with the hope that neither of us would pass out. It was so steamy my glasses were fogged over, so I removed them and carefully placed them on a nearby boulder while I attempted to take a photo. By this time we were both utterly exhausted, disappointed that we had not seen the pyramids, and though neither of us verbalized it, were ready to leave. We got almost all the way back down to the entrance and suddenly I realized that I had left my glasses on the boulder back up the mountain. Horrified, I had no choice but to turn around and will myself to make the climb once again. To make a long story short, I retrieved my glasses, made it back down, joined Alan and headed to the van. We literally peeled off our clothes and collapsed as the dogs, in air conditioned comfort, ecstatically wagged their tales at our return.

Back down off the mountain, we saw a small sign that we had not noticed before. It indicated that the pyramids were a mile or so down the road. At this point, I could not have cared less. We rested a bit, cranked the van and headed for Mérida.

Palenque...we'll see you another time.

San Luis Potosí...

On the drive to San Luis Potosí

The drive from Saltillo to San Luis Potosí had us arriving early in the afternoon. What we saw of the city was mostly traffic. Traveling with animals makes it very difficult to sight-see and after all this time on the road, even with the various stops along the way, we were ready to keep going. While it would have been nice to see the Centro Historico of SLP, getting closer to Mérida proved to be more appealing. We made the decision to drive as far as we could before sunset and as close to Puebla as possible. San Luis lies on the Mexican Plateau and the view while driving consists mostly of wooded hills of the Sierra Madre in the distance which seemed to be encased in a blue mist.

 The dogs were napping between us and Mr. Jules was burrowed under a quilt in the back, his favorite spot for the bouncy ride. I have not mentioned that when we were traveling through Alabama we had stopped for gas and to let the dogs out and when we got back in the van to leave, Alan took a head count and the cat was missing. He looked throughout the van and Jules was not to be found. We searched the entire area around the gas station for over 30 minutes, calling for him to come to us. We even got the dogs out and asked them to find Mr. Jules. The look on their faces was one of complete puzzlement. Cats are known to disappear and reappear days later but we did not have days to wait. Alan decided to take one last look in the tightly packed back compartment between the bed and the back doors of the van. Stuffed between two sleeping bags and other gear he saw a tiny pink nose. Jules stayed there, tucked away safe and secure, for the next several hours before climbing out and resuming his place in the rear of the van.

We got turned around a bit on the outskirts of San Luis, but our trusty GPS soon had us on the way to Puebla, bypassing Mexico City. We've heard horror stories about driving through D.F., so that particular spot will be seen when we can fly in for a few days.

A nice view, somewhere in México 😊...

Saltillo...

Unknown location, somewhere in México, taken with iPhone from car window

Most of the major roads in México are under construction or being expanded or repaired much like those in the United States. One major difference is that in México there is little warning that road crews are ahead. There is usually a sign that is no more than 100 meters from the actual work. There might be a man waving a red flag in the distance. Another difference is that in México, outside of the metropolitan areas, exit signs are not clearly marked or are completely nonexistent. Shortly after leaving Laredo the traffic was light and I was driving along at a nice clip when the road veered to the right. I thought that this was a continuation of the main road with another road that looked more like an exit veering to the left. Very quickly I realized what I had one and that this road was under construction and ended at a deep drop off into a muddy bog. Fortunately, I was able to stop a few meters before the van would have been axle deep in the mud. I backed up to get on the correct road and was thankful we avoided what would have been an embarrassing and time consuming event. This is why it is not recommended that one drive through México at night. The highway out of Laredo toward Monterrey was mostly very good, with an occasional pothole not unlike the roads we are accustomed to in Virginia, where the transportation department is poorly funded. Aware that this is one of the areas we are warned to avoid due to cartel activity, we wanted to get as far into central México as possible that first day. Another successful navigator of this route and fellow Mérida blogger had recommended our planned stops along the way. Saltillo, in the state of Coahuila was to be the first stop. Although many people choose to travel all the way to San Luis Potosi the first day, we were planning on shorter driving days mainly for the animals.

On the outskirts of the city we spotted a brand new Holiday Inn Express and decided to spend the night there. This hotel did not allow dogs, but we were able to have a hot shower and relax from a day on the road. The dogs seemed to be comfortable in their tiny, secure space and we were parked far enough in the back to be able to run the generator and air conditioner all night. It's amazing that the van guzzles gas but the generator can run all night and the gauge barely moves.

We had another forgettable meal at a nearby restaurant and after a good night's sleep we were on the road headed for San Luis Potosi. Once again, we saw no one that looked like a gangster and for the most part we travelled unnoticed except for an occasional glance at the motor home. So far we have encountered only courteous and friendly people who try their best to understand and translate our limited Spanish.

No Goodbyes, Only Hasta Luegos...

Kenya, John, BeeJay, Alan, David, Dolly

The mountains of Georgia, the wire grass of Alabama, the bayous of Louisiana, and the Lone Star State of Texas were all stops along the way as we spent time with family and friends before entering Mexico for the trip to our home. Saying goodbyes to family is always an emotional moment and especially when, at our age, or any age for that matter, we never know how many farewells we have remaining. We insisted that all should make plans to visit us soon (we'll see) and promised to travel safely and to report our experiences each day. The weather was beautiful in Georgia. We enjoyed our visit with my sister and brother-in-law, and with my niece and her family. Then we headed down to Alabama for a couple of days to spend time with my brother and sister-in-law. It was good spending some quality time with my little brother (he's actually a head taller than me). He assured me that we could expect a visit soon.

From Alabama we drove through the northern tip of Florida, the Mississippi Gulf Coast, and into New Orleans for a brief visit with our friends Robert and Muriel Sullivan. Robert is a French and Latin teacher who we met when he had a teaching position in Norfolk. His wife was in New Orleans when Katrina devastated the Crescent City. She came to Norfolk and spent 10 days in our home while we were traveling. We get a thank you card every year at Christmas, thanking us for our hospitality. Their home was spared and they are still in NOLA, praying that it never happens again.

From New Orleans, we traveled to Houston for a few days with Alan's brother and sister-in-law. We had planned to visit the Mexican Consulate there to obtain our Temporary Vehicle Import sticker for the van, but after 2 days of trying to reach someone we were told that it could only be granted at the border.

By now the animals were beginning to accept this puzzling nomad life. They travelled extremely well and were happy to sleep in such close quarters. Maneuvering through the 20 foot van required a certain degree of organization and cooperation. The organization part was fairly easy - the teamwork part occasionally broke down with the accompanying bitchiness.  Tempers can flare in such close quarters and we were no exception, but knowing each other so well after 34 years, the flares died quickly and it was back to driver and navigator mode.

Next...crossing the border at Laredo, Texas.

The Journey Begins...

Plugged-in at brother-in-law's home in
Houston

After a rather lengthy blogging sabbatical, I figured the least I could do would be to write about our adventures along the way as we make our way from Norfolk, Virginia to Mérida. The last few months have been busy with deciding what we would take with us and what to leave behind, with packing and multiple trips to Goodwill. There were also countless large black garbage bags lining the street in front of our house, filled with things that would likely fail the "one man's junk, another man's treasure" cliché. Because this is a new beginning, we chose to leave most of our accumulated belongings for others to enjoy. Other than a few cherished paintings, our favorite cookware, some kitchen gadgets, and clothes, we are coming to Mexico with our two dogs and cat in a 20 foot motor home.

We began our trip on Wednesday, October 9, in a heavy rain. It seemed that we would never get the last item loaded. We had planned on leaving around 9:00 AM. We drove away at noon. There was a tremendous feeling of relief, that even though our home is still unsold, no longer will we have to rush to clean the house and make it presentable for a showing. It was difficult and tiring to keep the house clean with two large, active dogs around. Our realtor is baffled as to why our home has not sold, and he recently had an open house for 30 area Realtors. The feedback was all positive, including affirmation that the price is where it should be. We have a great home in a desirable neighborhood, so it will sell eventually.

Our two dogs have never been on a car trip lasting more than half an hour. We had no idea what difficulties traveling together for such an extended time would bring. To our amazement, the dogs settled in between our seats, competing for the fully reclined position or the cramped one, and slept quietly for the entire day. Occasionally, a rough road or series of bumps would bring them to their feet, but then they settled down once again. We stopped frequently that first day, for water and bathroom .

Mr. Jules, our little orange Manx, cried for the first few miles, but he then also settled in, burrowing under a quilt on the bed or sitting on a hammock of sorts we fashioned from the collapsible nylon and mesh crate suspended between the two twin beds in back. He could see out the side and back windows and seemed content seeing more of the world in one day than in his entire 6 years.

We spent that first night parked in a huge parking lot in a beautiful North Carolina rest area, illegally, but no one ran us off. There were a few other cars parked nearby and the parking area was well lit.
A great night's sleep, with cool breezes which turned a bit chilly toward morning, rested all of us for the drive to Atlanta.

In Mérida

The new color
(no longer guacamole)

The first seven days in our house were terrific. We met up with Susan and TJ and enjoyed a great dinner at Rescoldo's, found a painting we loved at SoHo Galleries  as well as great conversation with Adele and Nick, had the facade of Lechuzas painted, and made an excursion to Uxmal and the haciendas Ochil and Yaxcopoil. Things took a quick turnaround when Alan re-injured a three week old back sprain. It's ironic that we walked all over the Centro and climbed around the ruins at Uxmal with no problem and then, while processing some photos in his iPad, he hopped off a counter stool and bam! With Naprosyn and ice packs, we thought that it would be better by morning. The spasms were quite severe for a while but eased off over a couple of days. On May 1, the holiday, I took a taxi out to Walmart and got an over-the-counter muscle relaxant that seemed to help a bit. I posted on Mexican Amigos for the name of a chiropractor and several people responded with Dr. Danny DeGraff's number but I was unable to get an answer over the last two days.  I suppose his office was closed for an extended holiday.

Getting ready to leave on May 3rd, we called United and requested a wheelchair at the airport. Even though Alan could take small steps by this time, we felt it would be easier and more comfortable if I wheeled him through the crowded terminals. As it turned out, the use of a wheelchair can make things a whole lot easier. People get out of your way and we got first boarding (right after first class, of course).
Interestingly, when I wheeled him into the United Air Club in Houston's IAH, the gentleman at the desk jumped up and asked if he could help us, as if we were lost and in the wrong place. I guess no one that is disabled joins the Air Club. After several questions that gave the impression that he was doubtful we belonged there, I pulled out the credit card that one gets as a member and suggested that if he checked the computer he would find that we were, indeed, members. Imagine!

It made a huge difference being in that space for the more than two hour layover. It was quiet, had comfortable chairs, tasty snacks and good coffee. Under these circumstances, the price of admission to this "exclusive" club was worth every cent. Although most of the people there looked just like us - tired travelers dressed quite casually- we were the only couple with one member in a wheelchair.

Five days and counting...

This Sunday we will begin our long overdue trip to Mérida and it will be a long day as well. We leave Norfolk International Airport ( why do regional airports call themselves 'international', when you can't fly direct to any international locations without first connecting and changing planes in a 'real' international airport?) at 0600. We arrive in Houston at 0730 and have an almost 12 hour layover before the evening flight to MID. The upside to this almost unendurable layover is that we will spend the day with Alan's brother, sister-in-law, and two nephews. It has been quite a while since we last visited, so this will be a great way to spend those 12 hours. Spending a lot of time in a busy airport seems to drain every ounce of energy from my body. Even if I read, which I find difficult to do in that environment with the constant intercom chatter and loud cellphone conversations from every direction, I can't seem to relax. I finally gave in and got the Continental Presidential Plus card, that costs an arm and a leg in annual fees, but which gains us access to the United Air Club room. There are some benefits that I hope will negate the annual fee.

First, there are complimentary beverages, breakfast and afternoon snacks, comfortable chairs, free wireless access, and newspapers and magazines, not to mention thousands fewer people. We also each get first and second checked bags free, which means we can carry an extra bag loaded with towels, sheets, and other necessities that we can find much cheaper at home. Then there is this: no exchange fees on purchases made abroad. Our last trip I was astounded when I got the Capital One statement after we had purchased a few pieces of furniture. That alone would have mostly covered the fee on the new card. The clincher is this: the first year is substantially discounted and once we are in Mérida permanently, we can simply cancel the card.

So, can you agree that I have thoroughly justified this bit of extravagance?

We are really excited about this trip. The pool should be spic and span after it is drained and scrubbed clean of mineral deposits this week. The roof will have been checked and drains cleaned. There is a painter set to paint the fachada and fountain. Jazmin will have the house spotlessly clean and the floors shining and there is a photographic excursion planned for Uxmal, Yaxcopoil, and Ochil.  We plan to see the Gulf of Mexico from the shores of Yucatán. We will enjoy some great food, relax with afternoon siestas, and hopefully see some of our new friends.

Finally.

Back to school

In the past I've said that I am done with school. No more studying, exams or writing papers. No more prodding myself to remain disciplined and focused. When I retired, it would mean pursuing only those things I deemed to be fun, interesting and without deadlines or proficiency requirements. No more yearly competency exams ( the same dozen or so modules with the same test questions year after year ) required for my job. I would be free to ignite my long suppressed creative energies. It can be difficult to allow those energies to surface, even when needed to help alleviate the stress,  if saddled with a highly stressful job that can leave one so completely drained that days off and brief vacations are needed to simply recover.

Two years ago, when I decided to cut back on my job to half time, I began to dabble in painting with acrylics. I never had any professional training, just a desire to see what I could accomplish trying my hand at abstract pieces. I've found painting to be fun and relaxing, although I'm not so certain that I'm really any good at it, outside of a decent understanding of color and texture.  I'll continue painting when we get to Mérida on a permanent basis, but I've also uncovered an old dream of learning photography.

I finally purchased a decent digital single-lens reflex camera which is a huge step up from our old point and shoot camera. A highly rated DSLR, the T2i is not a professional camera but is quite good for a "serious" hobbyist. A good camera is needed for exceptional photography although the essential ingredient is the artistic ability of the photographer. My artistic nature, long dormant, has begun to surface and I am excited about photography. However, the mechanics of digital or film photography is about as foreign to me as quantum physics.  Canon T2i for Dummies is not sufficient to teach me all that I need to know

Enter The Photography Institute. I'm possibly in over my head, but I enrolled in a 24-week course in professional photography. It's online, so I can pace myself and take up to a year if needed to complete the course. This will most likely slow down my blogging, but I should have some interesting photos to share from time to time. And I might even discover a way to make a little income when we finally get to the Yucatán. You know, enough for a little travel to places like Palenque or Xalapa.

 

Back home to Mérida

After what seems like a long, ho-hum summer, we are finally back home for a visit. If "back home" sounds a little strange, well.... it is. We are not yet here permanently, but coming for one of our semi-frequent visits seems like coming home. After a long 12-hour day in three airplanes and four airports, we arrived in Mérida at 7:53 PM. Our flight from Houston departed IAH at 6:40 PM, so we arrived in just over an hour although the flight time is approximately two hours. This is all thanks to Mexico for initiating Daylight Savings Time a couple of weeks before the United States. DST fools the mind but not the body.

We had been in the house about 15 or 20 minutes when Alan suddenly noticed that these two mirrors were missing from the front sala. We've been burglarized, I exclaimed!  We were puzzled that nothing else appeared to be missing. I immediately placed a call to Ruben, our faithful and extraordinary property manager. Oh, the mirror to the left of the entrance door fell and the glass was broken. He had removed the other mirror and had taken both to a repairman to attach a heavier guage wire and brackets.  I will need to speak with the owners of the store where the mirrors were purchased. An employee of the store installed them and one would assume that it would be done properly.

After we calmed down a bit, we headed out for a late dinner. We ended up at a new Taco place down at Calle 60 y 59.  I can't remember the name, but something about "spinning top" (La Trompo??).  These are not your Tex-Mex tacos, but Yucatecan style and quite good.

Full stomach, fresh linens on a comfortable bed - all we needed for a good night's sleep..

Blogging...What?

I have lots of questions about where I want to go with Los Colores de Mérida. I'm hoping that some ideas will come from the 4th Annual Latin American Bloggers Conference which is being held on November 5th in Mérida. I first discovered a Latin American blog when we began exploring the possibility of buying a place in the Yucatán and retiring there. I found blah...blah...blah...Ginger! to be an interesting and personal journey of two women and their beloved animals as they settled into their lovingly restored colonial home in the Centro. Then I found Moving to Mérida, a blog coming from a young Houston couple as they begin their dream of buying a home, renovating, and eventually moving to this wonderful city. Over the course of almost two years, I've discovered plenty of other Mexico-based writers who mostly chronicle their respective journeys from the United States and Canada to this vast country south of the border. The writing style varies, but all of them have something unique to say to their readers. With the newer blogs, including this one, the emphasis has been on chronicling the joys and pitfalls of purchasing and/or renovating a colonial home, discovering good restaurants, or simply elaborating on the successes and frustrations of dealing with Mexican bureaucracy. Some of the older blogs, like An Alaskan in Yucatán, have a beautifully written personal and reflective tone, and an occasional social commentary. Others take a light-hearted approach or provide a detailed and well photographed account of their travels throughout Mexico and the rest of the world. You will find the list of Blogs that I regularly follow on the sidebar to the right. 

When we are finally settled in our new life and adventure in Mérida - when the proverbial polvo has settled - I can see myself blogging about a trip to Oaxaca or Palenque with beautiful photographs detailing the magnificent sites, or ranting about the crazy drivers in the Centro, or swooning over the fabulous new Lebanese restaurant. I can see myself letting go the angst of  political shenanigans back in the United States and commenting in a more detached manner, and I can imagine describing to readers the secret spot we have discovered and displaying photos of our dogs gleefully playing on a secluded sunny, sandy beach...


Perhaps I've already answered my own question.

Belize - a bit British, a bit Mayan, & a lot Caribbean

Toucan- state bird of Belize

While we are dreaming of photographing Chichen Itza, I have my eye on another site for some great photos. Since we are retiring to this corner of the world, I've gained an interest in learning more about our neighbors to the south. Belize, formerly British Honduras, is the only country in Central America where English is the official language, although only a small percentage speaks it as their first language. A small nation-state, Belize has a population of about 333,000 (2010 est.) and is the only nation in the region with a British Colonial Heritage. In fact, Queen Elizabeth is the official head of state and appoints the Governor-General. The British parliamentary system is led by the Prime Minister, who exercises executive authority.

Located approximately 330 miles south of Cancún, Belize is bordered to the north by Mexico, the south and west by Guatemala, and to the east by the Caribbean Sea.  Before Europeans arrived, Belize was occupied by the Maya and there are recovered ruins as well as those still in the jungle.

Mayan ruin in Belize

Of course, there are many other incredible places to see that are in Mexico. It's hard to decide where to go first. If you haven't seen some of the videos produced by Mexico for the bicentennial celebration last year, you should take a look. They are breathtaking. I've linked to them on my blog before, but here is the video for Chiapas. I would like to, one day, post my own photos of this beautiful place. Then there's Veracruz, Sinaloa, Oaxaca....