A Personal Account of Quality Health Care in Mérida

Much has been written on blogs and discussed in forums on the issue of health care in Mexico and, specifically Yucatán. We all know that many people from the United States and Canada come to Mexico for quality and less expensive care. Until you experience it yourself, these testimonials really don't carry much weight. What is one person's good experience can be anothers nightmare. Let me tell you my story of disappointing results from a procedure a little over two years ago in Virginia. I don't usually like to discuss my personal health issues, but I believe that in this case it could help someone who might be having trust issues with the Mexican health care system.

On a routine eye exam, my optometrist discovered that the intra-ocular pressure in both eyes was too high. After monitoring this for a few months, with no change, he referred me to an ophthalmologist who specialized in this condition. I was given a prescription for eye drops to lower the intra-ocular pressure. The side effect was dilation of the pupil for a couple of hours in the morning and again at night. This interfered greatly with my work, which consisted of being in front of a computer for the better part of the day. After a few months of this, I was told that a solution would be to perform the same surgery for removing cataracts, although I did not have sufficient cataract advance to warrant the surgery at the time. However, it would be needed eventually and this surgery could (and I stress could) result in a lowering of the intra-ocular pressure. The surgery entailed removing the natural lenses and implanting artificial lenses, a very common and low risk procedure. I agreed and selected a newer type accommodating lens, which just means that one lens is for distance and the other for near vision. I was told that my vision would not be perfect, but that I would probably no longer need glasses except for reading fine print.

To make a long story shorter, I had the surgery and recovered well and quickly. I was told that it is common for this type surgery to produce scar tissue after a period of time. This will cause some blurred vision and can be remedied with a quick laser procedure. Sure enough, after about six months, my right eye (the one with the near vision lens) became blurry. I like my vision to be clear and sharp so I went in for the laser procedure. The blurriness improved a bit, but gradually returned and became even worse. I was told, simply, that the Cristalens brand that I had implanted was not yet perfected and that I would just have to live with the blurred vision, which seemed more like an oily film coating my eye.

Fast-forward to Mérida. I needed to have my eyes checked so I found an ophthalmologist, specializing in cataract and corneal transplant surgery, with an office at Alta Brisa. Dr. Alejandro Claros Bustamante, a young physician in practice with his father, provided a thorough examination and consultation. He even asked his father to take a look at my eyes. The opinion was that some vitreous humor was leaking and coating the lens, thus causing the blurriness. I was told that a quick procedure called a vitrectomy could be performed which would eliminate the problem.

Two weeks later, I had the surgery and have had amazing results. The blurriness is completely gone and I can see clearly for the first time in almost two years. I'm not sure why the doctors in Virginia never considered that this could be the problem. It seems that they have only about 5 minutes of time to consult with you after a technician has performed all the tests. You wait one to two hours past your appointment time, are served coffee and cookies to make up for this long wait, then rushed out with a polite handshake. This is the unfortunate state of health care in the United States.

I'm so happy I found my doctor in Mérida.

Is the Honeymoon Over?

It is said that retirement can be one of the major stressors in life, toward the bottom of the list behind such catastrophes as death of a spouse, divorce, and jail time. I would probably include moving to a foreign country in the top ten. Everyone, of course, sees this as an amazing adventure which creates joy and a sense of freedom.  It does do that, but such a major change can wreak havoc with one's health. Soon after arriving in Mérida, Alan came down with a head cold which turned into cough and congestion that lingered for weeks. Shortly after that, I contracted a very annoying gastrointestinal bug which stayed with me for more than a week, necessitating a course of antibiotics. A few weeks ago Alan had an infected finger which stubbornly required two courses of antibiotics. We have yet to figure out how or why that happened and can only suppose that his digging in the garden played a roll. Then it was my turn for the head cold which, thankfully, lasted only a few days. All this to say, if you are in the process of such a move or even contemplating a major life change, be prepared. Your body will, most likely, resist such change with a (hopefully) small catastrophe of its own.

I believe that most of the expats who find themselves in the Yucatán, and Mérida in particular, come here with star-studded eyes, lured by the slightly European feel of the city and the lasting intrigue that Mexico offers. But what happens when the stars fade, leaving the harsh reality of crumbling sidewalks littered with carelessly tossed trash or the contents of a neighbor's garbage bag strewn about by a starving cat looking for an elusive meal?  Or the harsher reality of a city and culture not enamored with dogs and the glares received when seen walking your dog? In Mérida, or so it seems, dogs are to be sequestered in the home, not walked or exercised, and definitely not socialized. This has been a stressor, not for our two dogs, but for their sensitive owners who want more than anything to not be seen as rude or arrogant extranjeros. We occasionally see another expat walking their animals and I wonder if they feel the same tenseness at what was once a relaxing exercise for both dog and owner. Because there are no green spaces in our neighborhood (or our back yard), we go out armed, not only with our little plastic poop bags, but also a squirt bottle full of water for rinsing off the light pole or the sidewalk. For now, this is all that we can do. Still, a part of me wants to meet that glare with a smile and a statement. Esta es mi ciudad ahora, también! This is my city now, also.

Are we disillusioned, wondering what could we have possibly thought moving to Mérida? We certainly visited the city enough times to know that it is not the paradise that some chorus. What drew us here was an opportunity to experience and integrate into a fascinating and sometimes enigmatic culture. Understanding it all doesn't happen overnight and sometimes requires stepping into unfamiliar situations and even making mistakes. We will never feel integrated if we hide ourselves inside the confines of an expat enclave. That doesn't mean that we will avoid friendships with other expats. As newcomers to this country we need the advice and friendship of fellow expats to help us navigate through the sometimes frustrating bureaucracies, and perhaps along the way we will forge lasting friendships with a few.

The honeymoon might be ending soon but, hopefully,  the relationship will continue to grow and blossom.

The Daily Grind...

If you Google 'daily grind', you'll get multiple sites for coffee shops and cafes. I chose to title this post as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the flexible and spontaneous routine of a retired person living the dream in the Yucatán. But, now that I think about it, we do begin our day with a cup or two of French press or, if we can't wait for the water to boil,  pop a capsule into the Nespresso machine and froth a bit of San Marcos semi for a latte. This actually takes place after we have walked and fed the dogs and cat. They come first. Always.

Next is a quick check of email and phone messages. I'm not sure why I check for phone messages because, to my knowledge, no one has left a voice message on our Amigo plan. That's a pay-as-you-go phone and data plan through Telcel. If there is anyone out there locally that has my cell number, would you please call and leave a message? Just be sure to call after midnight so that I will not automatically answer the phone. We'll consider this a test of my Amigo plan.

Once I've caught up on Facebook, checked my Blog roll for new posts, satisfied myself with news of the world,  and probably put on a load of wash, it's time for lunch. My God, where did the morning go? Are we going to snack, make some lunch, or run out to one of our favorite lunch spots? Whatever we decide, once we've eaten, it's time for a little more web surfing, reading, or a siesta. Every few days we will make a trip to the market, the grocery store or to Home Depot for a new dimmer switch to replace the one that has fried due to the fluctuating electrical grid that is Mexico. Once that is completed it is just about time for the late afternoon dog walk. My God, where did the afternoon go?

In between all this strenuous work we have managed to add soil to our little garden plots, plant a few new tropical specimens, keep our somewhat large pool sparkling clean, and make arrangements to ship our motor home back to the dealer in Florida from whom we purchased and who eagerly agreed to buy it back for a sum substantially less than what we paid. This last task involved a consultation with our favorite Yucatecan attorney, two visits to Hacienda (which turned out to be totally unnecessary), coordination with the shipping company and a United States custom broker, and multiple forms which had to be completed, scanned, and emailed. Oh, and money.

The upside to our visit to the Port of Progreso was that we had a mini-tour of this quaint gulf-side city as well as the vintage cottage, just steps from the beach, that is owned by our attorney. We also got to drive out to the very tip of the 8-kilometer bridge where we waited for almost two hours for the final inspection of the van before we said our farewell and gave thanks for our safe passage through Mexico.

It is a relief to have sent the motor home back to the US where, hopefully, someone else will make good use of it. After traveling through Mexico we decided that weekend excursions in a 20 foot van would simply not be that enjoyable. Also, motor homes are like large boats which require constant maintenance and, at least in the Centro, there is no covered parking that will accommodate this size vehicle. We accomplished our goal of moving to Mérida with our animals while avoiding the cramped confines of a car or the torture of shipping them by air cargo. After all, we were only kidding ourselves because we are both truly homebodies. An occasional travel adventure can be fun, but then it is always good to get back home where we can just putz around. Besides, even something as mundane as grocery shopping can be an adventure in Mérida.

Settling in to the Daily Routine...

We moved into our home, for good, at approximately 4:00 PM on Sunday, October 20th. We've owned our house four months shy of 3 years, and in that time our longest stay was 10 days. We've been here for 10 weeks now and we honestly don't know where the days go. We have a routine that has existed for almost twenty-five years which revolves around our animals. We awake around 7:00 AM  (much earlier when we were working stiffs), take the dogs for a 20 minute walk, return home, prepare their breakfast as well as the cat's, and have our own coffee and breakfast. Now that we are retired, instead of heading off to work, we generally check our email, our phones for any messages (not that we get very many), and our Face Book pages to keep up with what everyone in our small world has experienced in the past 24 hours -like viewing a photo of their breakfast, a picture of their children or a quote that has inspired them . It's comforting knowing that our friends actually eat!  Now that it's winter in the Yucatán, our daily morning swims have ceased because the pool water is a tad too cold. If we do something around the house that causes us to sweat profusely (which is mostly everything) a dip in the pool can be refreshing after first plunging in and vocalizing a loud #&%* (insert your favorite word here). We've never had a pool before, so we are meticulous about skimming, checking chlorine and pH levels, filtering, circulating, and backwashing. Actually, the filtration system is on a timer but we have to manually do the other things. This takes about an hour which includes standing back and admiring how clean and sparkling the water looks. Once a week we vacuum the bottom, being careful not to fall in while managing the 15-meter hose attached to the telescoping pole with a vacuum attachment on the end. This is not at all like our Dyson, which we regrettably left behind.

The little Klobenz we purchased at Liverpool (or was it Sears/Say-Arz?) manages, but really does not have the power to remove six months of el Centro dust that has infiltrated the sofa we purchased last April. The Yucatecan house cleaners are pretty good at beating the dust out, then brushing it away with a clean cloth.  Most seem to avoid anything electric which is understandable with the cost of electricity in Mexico.

So, after ten weeks in Mérida, are we comfortable, happy, and settling in? Definitely happy and comfortable enough for this stage of our transition.There are almost daily adventures for the most mundane chores, and although some trigger a bit of anxiety at times, we are learning our way around on our own and communicating well enough with our basic Spanish to accomplish our tasks. We try to study an hour each day and will likely begin private lessons soon.

Happy New Year / Feliz Año Nuevo

Update: We conquered an algae bloom in the pool, which followed a heavy rain and easing up a bit on the chlorine. Now I understand why the pool man kept it super-chlorinated. I don't like swimming in chlorine, but algae is worse.

Laredo

We did not know what to expect - traffic, long lines, agents rummaging through all the cabinets and drawers in our stuffed-to-over-capacity van, or worse, being told that we did not have all the necessary documents or that we couldn't cross with two dogs and a cat. I had learned through a popular RV forum that the Columbia Bridge crossing (the third of three bridges at Laredo) was best for motor homes. Some on the forum agreed and others said they did not like that particular crossing. We decided that we would go with Columbia, and after a forgettable night in Laredo, approached the border at 8:30 AM on a gray Monday. Surprisingly, there was only one other vehicle headed our way and a young lady waved us to the stopping point. Alan leashed the dogs and took them outside while she entered the van for a brief look, not bothering to check for any suspicious items we might be trying to sneak in. She then asked for the papers from the veterinarian certifying that all were properly vaccinated, gave them a cursory glance and then motioned that we could proceed. I got back in the van, looked at Alan as if to say "is that it?"and then realized that we still needed the temporary import sticker for the van.

Inside the building were windows for Migración, Aduana and Banjercito. There were no instructions for where to begin, and after glancing around as if lost, someone pointed to the Migración entrance. The agent asked for my passport and handed me two forms to complete. I completed the forms, which were suspiciously like the tourist forms you fill out when flying, and handed them to him. He studied them for a minute, then said we must return in 180 days. Oh, no, no. I took my passport and opened it to the 30-day Residente Temporal Visa, showed it to him, and then had to fill out another form. I swear it was the same form I had just given him. Now he tells me I have 30 days in which to get to Migración for the permanent visa card. Relieved, I motioned for Alan to come to the counter to complete his forms.

We then headed to Banjercito to  obtain the 10- year Temporary Vehicle Permit, which is a special permit for motor homes. It allows unlimited crossings for 10 years. After four years, however, we must obtain the Residente Permanente cards and will no longer be able to have a foreign vehicle in Mexico.
We will cross that bridge when we get there.

Immensely relieved, we climbed in the van and headed south toward Monterrey and Nuevo Laredo, that city famous for shootouts and other ghastly cartel shenanigans.


Next...Saltillo, Coahuila

Moving to Mexico is an Adventure....Right?

Moving from one location to another is always work, but divesting of almost everything from a current life, except for a few clothes and fewer household goods, is both exhilarating and daunting. If the move is to Mexico, it must be approached with a sense of adventure. Otherwise, a multitude of somewhat confusing bureaucratic obstacles could be overwhelming.



The above statement was my Facebook post a few days ago. Let me attempt to explain what I meant. When we made the decision about a year ago to finally make the permanent move to Mérida this September, we thought the plan was fairly simple and straightforward. We would put our house on the market, have an estate sale to empty our home of over thirty years of accumulated furniture and household goods that we had no intention of taking with us, load our motor home with a few clothes and our animals and drive away. The gently used 2004 motor home we purchased last summer is our solution for driving across the country and through Mexico to our home in Mérida. We had planned to import the vehicle in order to obtain Mexican plates in the hope that we would not stand out so much. Never mind that we have never seen a single 20 foot motor home during any of our visits. I recently contacted a customs broker in Laredo to get a quote for the importation. Needless to say, we will not be importing this vehicle at an estimated cost of a bit over $11,000.00 US. For that amount of money we can purchase a small car once we are settled in Mérida. On the other hand, that sum would likely purchase a lifetime of bus tickets and cab fares. It would be nice, however, to have a car for those times when we ...well, need a car. 

Our plan for visas has changed as well. With the new immigration law, we were thinking that we would apply for the Residente Permanente, a one time deal with no annoying yearly renewals. If we were to import the vehicle, the permanent visa would not be an issue. However, since we will now be driving a foreign-plated van, we can only cross the border with the Residente Temporal and after four years, when we will be required to obtain the permanent visa, we will have to take the van back NOB. The ironic thing about this rule is that motor homes are assigned a 10-year temporary import permit (TIP) and the Residente Temporal is only good for 4 years. 

Another thing that we are discovering (thanks to Mexico Amigos) is that if you plan to ship household goods to your new home in Mérida, be prepared to pay storage fees until you have your actual visa card in hand. The paperwork from Immigration will not get your goods released. People have reported waits of 4 to 6 weeks while their furniture sits crated on the pier (in the hot sun?). Another option would be to store the goods NOB and ship once the visa card is in hand. As I've said before, we only plan to ship a few paintings and a few small household goods, but I don't like the idea of oil paintings sitting on a pallet at the pier in Progreso. We now have to explore our other options.

It seems that everyone reporting their experiences with Immigration or Aduana has a slightly different take on the process. Purchasing a home in Mérida is the easy part. Getting there is not so easy, but all an adventure, no?
  

Nobody Wants to Talk About This... part II

Searching the internet for international health insurance is a bit like surfing for hotel accommodations. The options are numerous, depending on what you want -budget, moderate, better or deluxe- though it's far more complex and confusing than simply choosing between a room with a basic mattress and low thread count sheets and a luxurious room with pillow-top mattress and 600-count Egyptian cotton linens.

A few of the insurance company names we recognize from the USA, such as Cigna and MetLife, offer policies for expatriates in foreign countries. There are options to include or exclude coverage in the United States, with rates considerably lower if choosing the latter. This makes sense as we have the highest health care costs in the world. There are companies based in Europe and Asia that offer various plans and rates, from basic emergency coverage at reasonable rates to executive plans with full coverage, low deductibles and high premiums.

One of the more popular companies, recommended by Yucatan Living, is International Medical Group (IMG).  They also have a link to a specific agent, with whom they are 'loosely affiliated' and disclose that they receive a commission when purchasing through this link. I received an online quote from this agent that cost almost as much as private health insurance in the United States.  Going directly to the IMG website, I received a quote that was considerably less. Deductibles range from $250.00 to $10,000.00 and the premiums decrease substantially at the higher deductibles. IMG appears to have a solid reputation in the expat travel and medical insurance field.

Another source is Healthcare International, located in the United Kingdom, which has plans ranging from 'Healthcare Emergency Plus' with a maximum annual treatment benefit of $500,000 USD, to the 'Healthcare Executive' plan with an annual maximum of $2,000,000 USD. I requested an online quote for the least expensive plan with a $2000 USD deductible. I was quite surprised to receive a quote of $1,174.18 USD annual premium. This is the least expensive rate, by far, of all the other sources and is about what I would pay per month for a private insurance in the US. This is a basic plan that covers pretty much everything, while in the hospital, at 100% of the cost (up to $500,000 USD, which would be a whole bunch of Mexican pesos). It does not cover annual health checks, vaccinations, or outpatient diagnostics or prescriptions. For women of child-bearing age, it does not cover normal pregnancy and childbirth or complications of pregnancy and childbirth. It does cover 100% of the costs of emergency medical evacuation and medical repatriation, and up to $3000.00 for repatriation of mortal remains. This policy is worldwide, excluding USA.

There are many other choices for expatriate medical insurance that one can check out by simply  Googling 'international medical insurance'. Word of warning: If you provide an email address, which some companies require to receive an online quote, you will receive a phone call or email follow up which you can ignore if not interested. These people are like carnival hawkers for insurance companies.

Another option, and perhaps the best, is to find a local insurance agent in Mérida and purchase locally.
I have no idea what rates are like, but I've heard that they are reasonable. The Healthcare International policy might be a good choice for a year, to have coverage while en route through Mexico and until there is time to research, in person, what is available in Mérida. That would at least grant some peace of mind to the not necessarily paranoid but cautious expat like me.

A Garage Sale in Mérida ...

We've been gradually eliminating some of the furniture we inherited (purchased) with Casa de las Lechuzas and replacing with pieces more in line with our tastes.  At times we have thought that we wanted to move to a more contemporary look after over 30 years of living in a house full of antiques and traditional furniture, but we always end up being drawn to the traditional.The previous owners of our home did an admirable job of decorating, using modern pieces and interspersing with a couple of antique painted and decorated Chinese cabinets. Their art works, which were mostly abstract or modern, did not remain with the house. About the only personal belongings we will bring to Mérida are some of our paintings. For that reason we have purchased very little art for the house. Other than a wonderful oil on canvas by a Cuban artist purchased at SoHo Galleries, there are a few inexpensive prints currently adorning our walls.

This trip we wanted to get some comfortable furniture for the studio/media room, but before having it delivered we needed to eliminate two rather large ultra-suede corner chaise lounges. Enter Yucatán Online Garage Sale, a Facebook site originated by TheYucatán Times. I took some quick photos, logged in to the site and easily posted the items for sale. Within less than an hour I was messaged by a potential buyer, who dropped by to see the furniture, paid cash on the spot and returned the next morning to pick up. I have, at various times, seen individual items and what appears to be the entire contents of a house for sale. It's quick and easy to find something you might like or to sell an item you no longer need.

So much to do...

With our home in Virginia now actively on the market, we must turn our eyes toward the necessary steps to get us ready to actually pack the van with a few tropical weight clothes, our two dogs and cat, and head out for Mérida. The immigration laws have changed since we began this journey and although we can't foresee any problems, we must make a few decisions about how we will proceed.

First, we will need to visit the nearest Mexican consulate and apply for the Temporary Resident Visa. Once in Mexico, we then will have 30 days in which to go to Immigration to get the 'permanent' Temporary Visa. If I read the new regulations correctly, it is possible to apply for the Permanent Resident Visa immediately if retired and possessing sufficient income. Under the old regulations you had to have the FM3 for 5 years before getting the FM2. I think the key here is retirement and home ownership in Mexico.

All of the new rules relating to pension income, investment income, and property ownership are still a bit murky at this point. Our property in Mérida is owned jointly and the fideicomiso reflects this.  The question is: How do we sort this all out, divvy it up, and leave the US with both of us carrying the appropriate visa?  Can we call the Mexican Consulate and get an answer or do we have to have it all sorted out before we visit them? And exactly what papers and how many copies do we need to bring with us? I've sent an e-mail (in Spanish) to the Mexican Consulate in Washington, D.C. We'll see what they have to say. I've heard that different consulates require different documentation, one even requiring a letter from the state police certifying that there is no prior arrest record. Neither of us should have any worry there. I also hear that current expats are experiencing long waits and multiple visits to renew their visas. It would be really nice if we could get everything done with just one visit to Washington. It's a 3.5 hour drive or 4 hour train ride from our home. I'm trying to approach this process with patience. The same patience we will certainly need once in Mexico and that we need now for the selling of our home

Los perros en Mérida

I recently received  a comment on an older post related to the proposed Tampa to Yucatan ferry. I wrote about our desire for the ferry to become a reality because it would be the least traumatic way to transport our two dogs and cat to Mérida when we move there this summer.  The commenter stated that many people bring dogs into the country only to abandon them later and suggested that we leave our dogs behind and adopt unwanted dogs in Mérida, thereby "helping the problem, rather than adding to it." I was offended, at first, that this anonymous person could think that I would consider bringing our dogs to Mérida and then abandon them after realizing that they were getting in the way of our lives or becoming a nuisance or too expensive to keep. It was obvious that this person did not know us or the value that we place on these amazing animals. My response was that "suggesting we leave our dogs behind would be like asking someone to leave their child behind." (Here is where some will roll their eyes at such a comparison, but our animals are a part of our family).
And yes, they can be demanding and difficult at times.  I feel certain that our two would flunk out of Dog Whisperer school. The trauma they both experienced in the first few months of their lives, before we rescued them from certain euthanasia, helps us tolerate minor neuroses that others might not. I bonded with my first companion at the age of three -an American Staffordshire Terrier named Penny, who snarled when anyone that she did not know approached me. These animals are in our lives such a brief time, yet their impact is profound.

Having thought about the comment for a while, I have come to realize that the writer had only the best interests of the dogs in mind. It is tragic that so many companion animals are neglected and banished to the streets or to a shelter, where far too many must be euthanized because no one wants them. That is a heart breaking reality. There are many angels (and I know a few of them) who are working in Mérida and elsewhere to help end this tragedy.

Campaigns should be waged that discourage parents from giving in to their children who want a pet without understanding that it will be the parents' responsibility to care for the animal. And it is a HUGE responsibility with considerable expense. People should stop purchasing animals from retail pet shops. The "cute and irresistibly adorable" factor is responsible for many impulse purchases that begin with good intentions and end disastrously. Dogs, especially, can be trained to a degree but they have their own personalities and boundless energy. Watch out when they don't have an outlet, like DAILY walks, to expend some of that energy. They adapt amazingly well to your environment, and when they are not out sniffing the grass or pavement, or sleeping, they simply want to be with you. Always. Some chew furniture or shoes for a while but usually stop with a bit of gentle, but firm admonishment. They leave hair and muddy paw prints wherever they go. They want to sleep in YOUR bed, quietly at the foot or snuggled up against you. They wait patiently when you leave for work or go out to dinner and are ecstatic when you return. Every time. They depend on you for their every need and in return they give absolutely unconditional love.

As I've said before, not being able to bring our animals with us to Mérida would be a deal breaker.

Mérida - One of the World's Most Underrated Cities...

 This is from a 2011 article in Travel & Leisure Magazine. One of 26 cities throughout the world T& L has named underrated, Mérida, Yucatán shares the honor with a few well known places, such as Philadelphia and Denver, Bordeaux, France and Valencia, Spain, as well as a number of less well known cities like Durban, South Africa and Nara, Japan.  Other cities in the southern hemisphere include Montevideo, Uruguay and Valparaíso, Chile.

It's not likely that we will ever make a trip to South Africa or Nara, Japan, but Uruguay and Chile are certainly in the realm of possibilities, when we soon make our permanent home in Mérida.

Mexico 2012 Awesome!

I'm always looking for new and interesting videos and articles on Mexico. This You Tube video shows the incredible diversity of landscape in this great country -from desert to snow-capped mountains, from the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Coast, and from quaint and colorful colonial towns to the vibrancy of Ciudad de México. I can hardly wait to travel and photograph many of these sites.

And some good economic news.

Immigration

The new immigration laws for Mexico have been instituted and are currently being reviewed by the appropriate government agencies for proper application. I've read the new rules, as have groups like Yucatán Expatriate Services (Y.E.S.) and it appears that everyone is waiting for the final interpretation before stating definitive actions to be taken by new and existing expatriates. Click on the link for their website and a thorough discussion of the new regulations can be viewed. In a nutshell, this is the bottom line:

The Migratory status of "Non-Immigrant" (previously known as FM3), "Immigrant" (previously known as FM2) and "Immigrated" (Inmigrado) shall cease to exist and shall be replaced by visas that pertain to the 'conditions of stay.' The new designations will be Visitor (Visitante), Temporary Resident (Residente Temporal) and Permanent Resident (Residente Permanente).

I tend to like the new designations. With the previous FM3 visa, someone with property in Mexico and who resides in the country, up to a period of five years, was considered a "non-immigrant." If so desired, after that period of time, one could apply for the FM2 visa and become an "immigrant." Those terms have been replaced with "temporary" or "permanent" resident. And, if I have read correctly, the length of time required for becoming a permanent resident has been reduced to four years.

Also, a significant change, if I understand correctly, is that the various visas are to be obtained in the United States prior to arriving in Mexico and will be valid for up to 180 days. Once you cross the border you have 30 days in which to make a visit to INM for the permanent visa card. I wonder if this will, in any way, facilitate the border crossing process?

I'm still somewhat confused about the financial qualifications needed for temporary or permanent residency. It does appear that the required minimum monthly income has increased substantially. That could be a deterrent for future Americans or Canadians looking to be expats. How will non-married partners be treated, if living in the same household? I've read that Mexico acknowledges same-sex marriages that are valid in the country of origin. Do we need to plan a wedding in Maryland, or D.C.?

      Update:  I just read that Yucatán implemented the new law on Friday, November 9.

Boondocking Across Mexico

Years ago I fantasized about driving across the United States in a nice, comfortable motorhome visiting all the sites we have never seen, travelling slowly and aimlessly to wherever the winds blew us. Alas, there was very little time, with busy careers, to nourish this fantasy and it eventually died. This was, of course, all pre-Mexico.  I never really considered us to be "RV" people, but the thought of an extended trip exploring all the nooks and crannies seemed like a nice adventure, if a bit unrealistic for two people who, shall we say, favor slightly posher accommodations.  We went through a phase of tent camping a few years back and I must say that I love a campfire, but sleeping on hard, cold, damp earth is not for me. A nice little cabin in the woods with a decent bed is somewhat better, but a slick hotel or interesting B & B with unlimited restaurants nearby is supreme. No worry of ticks and chiggers which are rampant in our neck of the woods.

Now, remember how Alan and I (well.... mostly I) have anguished over how we will get ourselves and our animals to Mérida? Problem solved. No more relying on the empty promise of a Tampa ferry. No more dreading the thought of transporting our "kids" in a cargo hold that would probably take a year off their already short lives. Well, we still dread driving through the border area, but I've read all the RV forums and it seems that dozens of people do it every day with no problems. I figure having two dogs, who can be aggressive when they perceive that we are being threatened, can't hurt.

The solution? Well, I have to take credit for this brilliant idea. When thinking of driving with our two dogs and the cat in our Ford Escape, with a minimum of eight days on the road, it just seemed impossible without keeping them all heavily sedated. I started reading an RV forum and had the idea that a Class B motorhome would be ideal. They are fully contained, with two captain's chairs, an enclosed toilet and shower, a kitchen area with sink,  small refrigerator,  space for an induction cooktop, and a sleeping area with two twins which can fold out to a King bed. All this is on a gas-guzzling Ford E-350 Van chassis, that is only 20 feet long and fits in most any parking space. It doesn't need to be leveled, and can be hooked up to a campground's electricity when not using the generator fueled by the 35-gallon gas tank.

2004 Pleasure-Way

When Alan came on board with the idea, we started looking online and were flabbergasted by the sticker price. We soon found that there is a market for used Class B's, which is what most people can afford. We tried E-Bay, Craigslist, and for sale by owner. Most used units are well maintained because anyone who can afford a new one is going to take care of it. We finally found one we liked, and last Wednesday I flew to Gainesville, FL and drove it home. It's a 2004, with only 31,000 miles and looks brand new inside and out. We are thrilled - the dogs could not care less, but they will learn that it is just another of our homes, albeit a small one.

Within a few months after we arrive in Mérida, the vehicle will be 10 years old and, if we were told correctly by Girl Friday, we should be able to nationalize it with our FM3's. If anyone can verify this, we would appreciate a comment. Other's have said we need the FM2.

Also, we will be able to make short boondocking trips ( check out  this blog - I met Chris through the RV forum and have had a few nice e-mail chats with him) throughout Yucatán and southern Mexico and we won't have to board the dogs. Here's hoping we can find a good, secure spot to park it. It's a tad too large for our garage.

Stepping Up the Timeline II

One day, in the not too distant future, this blog will originate in Mérida, not southeastern Virginia.

A major step was taken this past weekend, when our home in Norfolk was opened to scores of people searching for antiques and other assorted housewares at bargain prices. We just ended a three day estate sale and I can tell you this... it's a lot of work and we are exhausted. We contracted with an estate sale company because we read that it is not advisable to do this on your own. It does seem, though, that we did most of the work and paid them a hefty fee to collect the money.  That being said, the sale went very well and we are now living in an almost empty house. There are still a few items remaining that will go to a local auction house and we will have a yard sale to get rid of the remaining junk. Was it an emotional experience?  Not in the least.  We have been told that letting go of material possessions can be very freeing and that is exactly the case. The moment we made a decision to purchase a home in the Yucatán we began a gradual detachment from all that we have accumulated over a lifetime. Other than a very few small items that will fit in our luggage or vehicle, everything is going.  It feels really good to have most of the furniture gone. The house is almost empty open and less cluttered and it will be much easier to keep clean once it goes on the market.

That's the next step.

Out of clutter find simplicity; from discord find harmony; in the middle of difficulty lies opportunity.” ~Einstein

Trouble in paradise...

Our blogger friend at Imagine Mérida just reported this. Yes, potential Mérida homeowners, things do go wrong in this delightful slice of heaven in Yucatán.  I just spoke with our property manager and he informed me that the studio air conditioner was not performing well enough for the current guest. I thought this was supposed to be the cooler time of year, when ceiling fans and open doors and windows are enough to stave off drenching sweat. I mean, I spent a week there in July and never once turned it on. I did, however,  spend an inordinate amount of time in the pool. Alan and I were both there in November and used no A/C.  Ruben informed me that the guest complained of dampness and I do know that it has been unusually wet this 'dry' season. The A/C's were all checked in the spring and were in good working order. I thought perhaps it could be a freon (or whatever gas they now use) leak. He tells me that the repairman took the unit to be repaired. Let's hope that it is repairable!

I haven't received the bill for this yet, but I can tell you that normally the costs of repair in Mérida are considerably less expensive than back at home. That is some consolation because the frequent breakdown of any electronic device in this heat and humidity can be frustrating.

Another consolation. The guest pays for any electricity over and above a set usage that is considered adequate. This is a policy that many rental casas use and one that we adopted after a particularly nasty electric charge by another guest.

The moral of this story? Go with the flow, expect the unexpected, and enjoy your slice of heaven.

photoArt by John Bradshaw

The blessings and hassles of 2011

Looking back over the past year, we have been blessed in many ways. Foremost, if not as fit as we would like to be, we both are reasonably healthy as are our three animals and our extended families. We are fortunate to be in a position to have purchased a home in Mérida and begin our plans to retire as expats in Mexico. I'm not sure I like the word "expatriate." It seems to imply a renunciation of allegiance to one's country of origin, but actually refers to anyone living temporarily or permanently in another country. There is much to not like about what is going on in the United States right now, but we are not renouncing anything. We're just thrilled to have the opportunity to experience another culture in our retirement years, especially a place as culturally rich as Yucatán. Another Mérida-based blogger, My Mérida Life, posted a rather poignant piece about how their priorities have changed over the course of a single year living in Mexico.  In many ways, we have begun this process before actually getting there on a permanent basis. Resentment, anger and frustration seem to melt away more quickly.

Leonora Carrington sculpture on the Paseo de Montejo
photo January 2011 by John Bradshaw

Patience is possible. Being without a working refrigerator for a week is annoying, but we've managed fairly well with one ice chest. We've had no nighttime ice cream for a week and I think we might have shed a pound or two.  We've also been without TV service for over two weeks and despite missing the season finale of our two favorite shows, it has not been all that bad, and our dogs have loved the extra attention. Could this be the universe preparing us for our new life in a foreign country?

A special thanks to all of the "seasoned" Mérida bloggers for sharing a wealth of knowledge and experience and for offering advice, when asked, about how to best succeed in adapting to life in Mexico.  For those of you pondering a potential move to Mérida, or any place in Mexico, a good resource is Joanna Rosado's book, Magic Made in Mexico and all of the blog sites listed on my blog list.

Living in Mexico

When we tell friends and colleagues that we will soon be retiring and moving to Mérida, the reaction is usually "that's wonderful!" "Where IS that?" and "why Mexico?" What I want to say, but don't, is that "you probably wouldn't understand  unless you've been there." Most of our professional colleagues are younger, upwardly mobile suburbanites with children, new homes and vacation dreams of ski resorts and luxury cruises to tropical islands in the Caribbean.

Not that there is anything wrong with all of that, but those kinds of places have never been on our radar.
Give us fascinating history, glorious architecture, diversity and a rich cultural heritage. Our first visit to Mexico was a few years ago when we visited two friends who were staying the winter in the wonderful colonial city of Oaxaca. Arriving late at night, as our taxi drove us through the dark, deserted streets of the city, we were both thinking that this would not be a place where we would feel safe. We met our friends, settled in for the night and when the morning greeted us with bright sunlight, we discovered what so many others before us had found. We began to dream of moving there and living in one of the old colonial homes. Once back home in Virginia, we realized that this was not the time and Oaxaca was not the place for this dream to materialize.

Fast forward a few years to Mérida. We began the research a year before actually visiting the city, using the internet to read everything that had ever been written about Mérida and the Yucatán peninsula. We discovered all the good things people had to say as well as 'more than we needed to know' about an unfortunate situation within the expat community. Through the various blogs, however, we started getting to know some of these folks and discovered the valuable and useful information they have shared about their lives in Mexico. They are truthful about the difficulties of living as a foreigner in this country, but also marvel at the opportunity to be a part of this magical place. Were it not for these bloggers, who chronicle their daily lives in Mérida and other cities across Mexico and who tell the truth about Mexico,  our decision to make this huge transition might not have been made. It is with anticipation and great joy that we have begun this journey. Hopefully, along the way, other potential wanderers will read of magic and truth in these pages and strike out on a similar journey.