The Daily Grind...

If you Google 'daily grind', you'll get multiple sites for coffee shops and cafes. I chose to title this post as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the flexible and spontaneous routine of a retired person living the dream in the Yucatán. But, now that I think about it, we do begin our day with a cup or two of French press or, if we can't wait for the water to boil,  pop a capsule into the Nespresso machine and froth a bit of San Marcos semi for a latte. This actually takes place after we have walked and fed the dogs and cat. They come first. Always.

Next is a quick check of email and phone messages. I'm not sure why I check for phone messages because, to my knowledge, no one has left a voice message on our Amigo plan. That's a pay-as-you-go phone and data plan through Telcel. If there is anyone out there locally that has my cell number, would you please call and leave a message? Just be sure to call after midnight so that I will not automatically answer the phone. We'll consider this a test of my Amigo plan.

Once I've caught up on Facebook, checked my Blog roll for new posts, satisfied myself with news of the world,  and probably put on a load of wash, it's time for lunch. My God, where did the morning go? Are we going to snack, make some lunch, or run out to one of our favorite lunch spots? Whatever we decide, once we've eaten, it's time for a little more web surfing, reading, or a siesta. Every few days we will make a trip to the market, the grocery store or to Home Depot for a new dimmer switch to replace the one that has fried due to the fluctuating electrical grid that is Mexico. Once that is completed it is just about time for the late afternoon dog walk. My God, where did the afternoon go?

In between all this strenuous work we have managed to add soil to our little garden plots, plant a few new tropical specimens, keep our somewhat large pool sparkling clean, and make arrangements to ship our motor home back to the dealer in Florida from whom we purchased and who eagerly agreed to buy it back for a sum substantially less than what we paid. This last task involved a consultation with our favorite Yucatecan attorney, two visits to Hacienda (which turned out to be totally unnecessary), coordination with the shipping company and a United States custom broker, and multiple forms which had to be completed, scanned, and emailed. Oh, and money.

The upside to our visit to the Port of Progreso was that we had a mini-tour of this quaint gulf-side city as well as the vintage cottage, just steps from the beach, that is owned by our attorney. We also got to drive out to the very tip of the 8-kilometer bridge where we waited for almost two hours for the final inspection of the van before we said our farewell and gave thanks for our safe passage through Mexico.

It is a relief to have sent the motor home back to the US where, hopefully, someone else will make good use of it. After traveling through Mexico we decided that weekend excursions in a 20 foot van would simply not be that enjoyable. Also, motor homes are like large boats which require constant maintenance and, at least in the Centro, there is no covered parking that will accommodate this size vehicle. We accomplished our goal of moving to Mérida with our animals while avoiding the cramped confines of a car or the torture of shipping them by air cargo. After all, we were only kidding ourselves because we are both truly homebodies. An occasional travel adventure can be fun, but then it is always good to get back home where we can just putz around. Besides, even something as mundane as grocery shopping can be an adventure in Mérida.

A Sweltering Day in Palenque

Beginning the steep climb

As we drove out of Orizaba, we again were amazed at the beauty of this part of Mexico. The plan was to head for Villahermosa, the last stop before a planned side trip to Palenque, Chiapas and the final leg of the trip to Mérida. We would drive until dusk, stop for the night, and drive down to Palenque. There is a camp site for motor homes near the ruins and we decided that we could stay overnight  if there was a vacant spot. We were getting tired from the long driving days and sensed that the dogs were about as ready as we were end the nomadic journey and settle in to a real house.  We had no clear destination for a stopping point near Villahermosa and chose to find a hotel if possible. Our stopping point ended up being a Pemex station on the outskirts of a small town whose name I cannot remember. Say what you will about sleeping in a motor home in a gas station parking lot, but I can say that it is actually very quiet and safe. Several large trucks are usually parked for part or all of the night in order for the tired drivers to take a break from the road. We asked for permission to stay and the attendant nodded his approval. It was indeed a quiet night, especially with the generator running, and sleeping in the air conditioned camper was restful. Early the next morning, after walking the dogs in a convenient grass spot next to the parking area, we began the less than two hour drive to Palenque. After driving through the small town and as we approached the national park there was an entrance road where we paid a small fee for who knows what. There were no signs, just an attendant collecting the money. We drove a bit further and found what looked like a visitor's information building. There were a number of people, mostly American or European tourists sitting at tables smoking and drinking soft drinks. There were, once again, no signs with information as to what to do or where to go to see the ruins. We spotted a palapa structure down the road and headed in that direction. There we were told that we must go back to the museum to purchase tickets. After walking back for the tickets and to the palapa hut again, we presented our tickets and were motioned to enter the trail leading to who knows where. There were a few signs along the trail explaining the various parts of the Mayan community -communal areas, living areas, etc. We took the first route which climbed to one area, then climbed to another, and on and on. It was hot and 100% humidity -not a good combination for two out of shape gringos.

Steps that lead to what might have been a communal plaza

We really did not know where these trails ended, only that we were getting higher and higher with no end in sight. We had hoped that at some point we would emerge to see the grand pyramids of Palenque. When we thought we could not go another level higher, we saw a couple of park employees and asked where we could see the pyramids. One of the men motioned in a direction as in "over there." We headed back down and concluded that the other trail was the one we wanted. By now we were both out of breath, soaking wet, and tired.

Waterfall

We continued on, however, stopping to rest with the hope that neither of us would pass out. It was so steamy my glasses were fogged over, so I removed them and carefully placed them on a nearby boulder while I attempted to take a photo. By this time we were both utterly exhausted, disappointed that we had not seen the pyramids, and though neither of us verbalized it, were ready to leave. We got almost all the way back down to the entrance and suddenly I realized that I had left my glasses on the boulder back up the mountain. Horrified, I had no choice but to turn around and will myself to make the climb once again. To make a long story short, I retrieved my glasses, made it back down, joined Alan and headed to the van. We literally peeled off our clothes and collapsed as the dogs, in air conditioned comfort, ecstatically wagged their tales at our return.

Back down off the mountain, we saw a small sign that we had not noticed before. It indicated that the pyramids were a mile or so down the road. At this point, I could not have cared less. We rested a bit, cranked the van and headed for Mérida.

Palenque...we'll see you another time.

A Pleasant Night in Orizaba, Veracruz...

We were unable to capture images while in Orizaba, but this photo is borrowed from Wikipedia, and attributed to David Tuggy.

We decided that driving past Puebla and into Veracruz would save us time and put us even closer to Palenque, which we planned to visit before the final leg of our journey to Mérida. The autopista past Puebla stretched on and on, but the mountain views in the distance were incredible. As we got closer to Veracruz, suddenly we were in the mountains and quite impressive ones at that. We had decided on one of two cities to spend the night - Orizaba or Cordoba. If the first did not appear suitable, we would head for the next. It was the middle of the afternoon when we began getting closer to Orizaba and the mountains were simply spectacular. We climbed and climbed as large 18-wheel trucks zoomed past us, oblivious to the steep inclines and even more fearless on the declines. There were emergency lanes to enter in the event of failing brakes! All of a sudden we appeared to be in light fog. As we looked out at the openings between the mountains, we realized that we were not in fog but driving through clouds. We soon saw a large sign over the highway announcing that we were in the "Zona Nebula" (cloud zone). It is safe to say that this was the most harrowing drive of my life. I've driven in dense fog before, and there is usually a place to pull off the road to steel the nerves. On these mountain passages there is absolutely nowhere to stop and the large trucks that frequent this route have no issue with impatiently passing more cautious drivers. I got behind one of the trucks and vowed to stay behind it no matter what. The cloud mist was so thick that I could barely see his tail lights. After what seemed like an eternity, we finally descended enough to emerge from the cloud. As we entered the exit road to take us into Orizaba, the view took our breath away. We were in a lush valley surrounded by green mountains. Entering the town (city) we were not overly impressed, but it was late afternoon and traveling after dark on these roads was out of the question. We kept driving deeper into the city and were pleasantly surprised to see a lovely historical center. We spied yet another brand new Holiday Inn Express (seems as though they are popping up all over Mexico) and pulled into the small and narrow parking area. The young desk clerk, Enrique, was friendly and helpful and he spoke perfect English. It appears that this hotel chain is making sure that at least one employee speaks English, which is most helpful for those of us still learning Spanish.

After helping us park the monstrosity of a van, Enrique recommended the hotel dining room for dinner. The meal was mediocre but the room was nice, with modern decor and wood floors. I awoke before daylight and went out to the van to walk the dogs. When I brought them back to the van I heard a cat meowing. It came from outside the van and I knew that Mr. Jules had escaped once again. The parking attendant also heard him and was trying to coax him out from under a truck. I sat on the curb and waited, and after half an hour he cautiously walked over to me and I grabbed the little devil. His nine lives are still intact. My one - a little shaky...

Orizaba, Veracruz is a place to visit a second time.

Puebla...

Our drive through Puebla provided another beautiful mountain vista. The gray was finally giving in to clear skies and fluffy clouds. Puebla is located in the central highlands of Mexico, between the Sierra Nevada and Sierra Madre Oriental mountains. The views are absolutely gorgeous, unlike any mountain ranges I've seen in the United States. Granted I have never seen the magnificent Rockies, but surely these must compare. We were ahead of schedule and, once again, decided to keep driving. It is simply too difficult to drive into the cities, find a place to park, and worry about what to do with the dogs. The generator must be running at all times when parked for longer than a gas stop in order to run the air conditioner to keep the animals cool. It can be rather noisy, so unless we are in an appropriate place, we just keep moving. Puebla and Querétaro are two places we would someday want to visit to really experience the sights and culture.

We continued driving on the very nice Puebla cuota (toll road) and enjoyed the scenery. We passed a Pemex gas station on the other side of the highway and there was not a nearby retorno (turn around). We had a bit more than a quarter of a tank of gas and were sure there would be another soon. We kept driving and driving on what seemed like a never ending highway and around every bend we kept looking for a gas station. Nothing. Beginning to get a bit worried ( we had not once seen one of the 'Green Angel' trucks that are supposed to be everywhere to assist stranded motorists), I watched the gauge move downward to a little less than a quarter tank. Now I was really concerned. We had already turned off the A/C to conserve gas, but the gas-guzzling Ford E-350 van didn't seem to notice. Every few miles there were pull-overs for agua (water for overheated engines I suppose), but no gas. Just as the gauge showed about 1/8 of a tank, dangerously close to empty, in the distance Alan spotted one of the ubiquitous Pemex signs.

Relieved, we stopped, walked the dogs, and vowed to never let the tank go below half.

San Luis Potosí...

On the drive to San Luis Potosí

The drive from Saltillo to San Luis Potosí had us arriving early in the afternoon. What we saw of the city was mostly traffic. Traveling with animals makes it very difficult to sight-see and after all this time on the road, even with the various stops along the way, we were ready to keep going. While it would have been nice to see the Centro Historico of SLP, getting closer to Mérida proved to be more appealing. We made the decision to drive as far as we could before sunset and as close to Puebla as possible. San Luis lies on the Mexican Plateau and the view while driving consists mostly of wooded hills of the Sierra Madre in the distance which seemed to be encased in a blue mist.

 The dogs were napping between us and Mr. Jules was burrowed under a quilt in the back, his favorite spot for the bouncy ride. I have not mentioned that when we were traveling through Alabama we had stopped for gas and to let the dogs out and when we got back in the van to leave, Alan took a head count and the cat was missing. He looked throughout the van and Jules was not to be found. We searched the entire area around the gas station for over 30 minutes, calling for him to come to us. We even got the dogs out and asked them to find Mr. Jules. The look on their faces was one of complete puzzlement. Cats are known to disappear and reappear days later but we did not have days to wait. Alan decided to take one last look in the tightly packed back compartment between the bed and the back doors of the van. Stuffed between two sleeping bags and other gear he saw a tiny pink nose. Jules stayed there, tucked away safe and secure, for the next several hours before climbing out and resuming his place in the rear of the van.

We got turned around a bit on the outskirts of San Luis, but our trusty GPS soon had us on the way to Puebla, bypassing Mexico City. We've heard horror stories about driving through D.F., so that particular spot will be seen when we can fly in for a few days.

A nice view, somewhere in México 😊...

Saltillo...

Unknown location, somewhere in México, taken with iPhone from car window

Most of the major roads in México are under construction or being expanded or repaired much like those in the United States. One major difference is that in México there is little warning that road crews are ahead. There is usually a sign that is no more than 100 meters from the actual work. There might be a man waving a red flag in the distance. Another difference is that in México, outside of the metropolitan areas, exit signs are not clearly marked or are completely nonexistent. Shortly after leaving Laredo the traffic was light and I was driving along at a nice clip when the road veered to the right. I thought that this was a continuation of the main road with another road that looked more like an exit veering to the left. Very quickly I realized what I had one and that this road was under construction and ended at a deep drop off into a muddy bog. Fortunately, I was able to stop a few meters before the van would have been axle deep in the mud. I backed up to get on the correct road and was thankful we avoided what would have been an embarrassing and time consuming event. This is why it is not recommended that one drive through México at night. The highway out of Laredo toward Monterrey was mostly very good, with an occasional pothole not unlike the roads we are accustomed to in Virginia, where the transportation department is poorly funded. Aware that this is one of the areas we are warned to avoid due to cartel activity, we wanted to get as far into central México as possible that first day. Another successful navigator of this route and fellow Mérida blogger had recommended our planned stops along the way. Saltillo, in the state of Coahuila was to be the first stop. Although many people choose to travel all the way to San Luis Potosi the first day, we were planning on shorter driving days mainly for the animals.

On the outskirts of the city we spotted a brand new Holiday Inn Express and decided to spend the night there. This hotel did not allow dogs, but we were able to have a hot shower and relax from a day on the road. The dogs seemed to be comfortable in their tiny, secure space and we were parked far enough in the back to be able to run the generator and air conditioner all night. It's amazing that the van guzzles gas but the generator can run all night and the gauge barely moves.

We had another forgettable meal at a nearby restaurant and after a good night's sleep we were on the road headed for San Luis Potosi. Once again, we saw no one that looked like a gangster and for the most part we travelled unnoticed except for an occasional glance at the motor home. So far we have encountered only courteous and friendly people who try their best to understand and translate our limited Spanish.

Laredo

We did not know what to expect - traffic, long lines, agents rummaging through all the cabinets and drawers in our stuffed-to-over-capacity van, or worse, being told that we did not have all the necessary documents or that we couldn't cross with two dogs and a cat. I had learned through a popular RV forum that the Columbia Bridge crossing (the third of three bridges at Laredo) was best for motor homes. Some on the forum agreed and others said they did not like that particular crossing. We decided that we would go with Columbia, and after a forgettable night in Laredo, approached the border at 8:30 AM on a gray Monday. Surprisingly, there was only one other vehicle headed our way and a young lady waved us to the stopping point. Alan leashed the dogs and took them outside while she entered the van for a brief look, not bothering to check for any suspicious items we might be trying to sneak in. She then asked for the papers from the veterinarian certifying that all were properly vaccinated, gave them a cursory glance and then motioned that we could proceed. I got back in the van, looked at Alan as if to say "is that it?"and then realized that we still needed the temporary import sticker for the van.

Inside the building were windows for Migración, Aduana and Banjercito. There were no instructions for where to begin, and after glancing around as if lost, someone pointed to the Migración entrance. The agent asked for my passport and handed me two forms to complete. I completed the forms, which were suspiciously like the tourist forms you fill out when flying, and handed them to him. He studied them for a minute, then said we must return in 180 days. Oh, no, no. I took my passport and opened it to the 30-day Residente Temporal Visa, showed it to him, and then had to fill out another form. I swear it was the same form I had just given him. Now he tells me I have 30 days in which to get to Migración for the permanent visa card. Relieved, I motioned for Alan to come to the counter to complete his forms.

We then headed to Banjercito to  obtain the 10- year Temporary Vehicle Permit, which is a special permit for motor homes. It allows unlimited crossings for 10 years. After four years, however, we must obtain the Residente Permanente cards and will no longer be able to have a foreign vehicle in Mexico.
We will cross that bridge when we get there.

Immensely relieved, we climbed in the van and headed south toward Monterrey and Nuevo Laredo, that city famous for shootouts and other ghastly cartel shenanigans.


Next...Saltillo, Coahuila

No Goodbyes, Only Hasta Luegos...

Kenya, John, BeeJay, Alan, David, Dolly

The mountains of Georgia, the wire grass of Alabama, the bayous of Louisiana, and the Lone Star State of Texas were all stops along the way as we spent time with family and friends before entering Mexico for the trip to our home. Saying goodbyes to family is always an emotional moment and especially when, at our age, or any age for that matter, we never know how many farewells we have remaining. We insisted that all should make plans to visit us soon (we'll see) and promised to travel safely and to report our experiences each day. The weather was beautiful in Georgia. We enjoyed our visit with my sister and brother-in-law, and with my niece and her family. Then we headed down to Alabama for a couple of days to spend time with my brother and sister-in-law. It was good spending some quality time with my little brother (he's actually a head taller than me). He assured me that we could expect a visit soon.

From Alabama we drove through the northern tip of Florida, the Mississippi Gulf Coast, and into New Orleans for a brief visit with our friends Robert and Muriel Sullivan. Robert is a French and Latin teacher who we met when he had a teaching position in Norfolk. His wife was in New Orleans when Katrina devastated the Crescent City. She came to Norfolk and spent 10 days in our home while we were traveling. We get a thank you card every year at Christmas, thanking us for our hospitality. Their home was spared and they are still in NOLA, praying that it never happens again.

From New Orleans, we traveled to Houston for a few days with Alan's brother and sister-in-law. We had planned to visit the Mexican Consulate there to obtain our Temporary Vehicle Import sticker for the van, but after 2 days of trying to reach someone we were told that it could only be granted at the border.

By now the animals were beginning to accept this puzzling nomad life. They travelled extremely well and were happy to sleep in such close quarters. Maneuvering through the 20 foot van required a certain degree of organization and cooperation. The organization part was fairly easy - the teamwork part occasionally broke down with the accompanying bitchiness.  Tempers can flare in such close quarters and we were no exception, but knowing each other so well after 34 years, the flares died quickly and it was back to driver and navigator mode.

Next...crossing the border at Laredo, Texas.

Moving to Mexico is an Adventure....Right?

Moving from one location to another is always work, but divesting of almost everything from a current life, except for a few clothes and fewer household goods, is both exhilarating and daunting. If the move is to Mexico, it must be approached with a sense of adventure. Otherwise, a multitude of somewhat confusing bureaucratic obstacles could be overwhelming.



The above statement was my Facebook post a few days ago. Let me attempt to explain what I meant. When we made the decision about a year ago to finally make the permanent move to Mérida this September, we thought the plan was fairly simple and straightforward. We would put our house on the market, have an estate sale to empty our home of over thirty years of accumulated furniture and household goods that we had no intention of taking with us, load our motor home with a few clothes and our animals and drive away. The gently used 2004 motor home we purchased last summer is our solution for driving across the country and through Mexico to our home in Mérida. We had planned to import the vehicle in order to obtain Mexican plates in the hope that we would not stand out so much. Never mind that we have never seen a single 20 foot motor home during any of our visits. I recently contacted a customs broker in Laredo to get a quote for the importation. Needless to say, we will not be importing this vehicle at an estimated cost of a bit over $11,000.00 US. For that amount of money we can purchase a small car once we are settled in Mérida. On the other hand, that sum would likely purchase a lifetime of bus tickets and cab fares. It would be nice, however, to have a car for those times when we ...well, need a car. 

Our plan for visas has changed as well. With the new immigration law, we were thinking that we would apply for the Residente Permanente, a one time deal with no annoying yearly renewals. If we were to import the vehicle, the permanent visa would not be an issue. However, since we will now be driving a foreign-plated van, we can only cross the border with the Residente Temporal and after four years, when we will be required to obtain the permanent visa, we will have to take the van back NOB. The ironic thing about this rule is that motor homes are assigned a 10-year temporary import permit (TIP) and the Residente Temporal is only good for 4 years. 

Another thing that we are discovering (thanks to Mexico Amigos) is that if you plan to ship household goods to your new home in Mérida, be prepared to pay storage fees until you have your actual visa card in hand. The paperwork from Immigration will not get your goods released. People have reported waits of 4 to 6 weeks while their furniture sits crated on the pier (in the hot sun?). Another option would be to store the goods NOB and ship once the visa card is in hand. As I've said before, we only plan to ship a few paintings and a few small household goods, but I don't like the idea of oil paintings sitting on a pallet at the pier in Progreso. We now have to explore our other options.

It seems that everyone reporting their experiences with Immigration or Aduana has a slightly different take on the process. Purchasing a home in Mérida is the easy part. Getting there is not so easy, but all an adventure, no?
  

A Busy Week

This trip to Casa de La Lechuzas has been interesting and busy. A lot has been done, but new ideas about future possibilities with the house have us dreaming again. It hasn't been all work, however. We've managed to eat dinner at two new restaurants and have enjoyed Rescoldo's twice. I repeat myself when I say that I could live off their Greek salads and thick, warm, open oven-baked pita. Add a side of tzatziki and roasted red pepper hummus and I'm in heaven. The cooling effect of cucumbers, strained yogurt, mint, dill and Greek olives makes Mediterranean food perfect for this hot climate.  The ever changing gelato flavors are not to be missed -Toasted Coconut, Cranberry Almond, Dulce de Leche, or Honey Lavender. Lavender flavored gelato, you say? Delicious. Now, if we can just find a great Thai and Indian restaurant, we will be happy.

On the work side, we have accomplished a few tasks with many more remaining after we are gone and just before we arrive in September. Painting will be completed, pasta tiles polished to a spit shine and electrical issues will, hopefully, be resolved. The electrician wants to investigate further and probably redo some of the lines. It is nothing major, but annoying things like dimmers not working. The configuration of outlets is confusing and we still have to press one toggle switch after another to turn on the lights that we want. We would like to simplify the operation. It's tough getting older.

Did I mention that it has been a bit warm in Mérida this week? We have enjoyed the pool this trip much more than other times. For once, it is being maintained properly and the heat has made the water temperature comfortable. The pool is fairly large and warms up slowly but seems to cool down quickly after the sun goes down. A swim just before midnight last night was relaxing and refreshing.

We managed to meet a few new friends and neighbors as well as seeing an old friend. Our stay finally coincided with that of these two guys, both extremely nice and comfortable to be around. One is a deep Southerner like me, the other with an unmistakable accent from a land far down under and away. Then, there was a neighbor from around the corner ( a reader of this blog) who stopped by for a nice chat and with whom we hope to have many more conversations. Finally, we met a new Facebook friend with an opinion (his words).

More to come...

Update on 'So much to do'- Mexican Embassy

After an e-mail to the Mexican Consulate requesting information on the documentation we need for our  visa applications, and two missed phone calls, I spoke with the agent in charge. Her first question was to find out if we planned to work in Mérida. Upon informing her that my partner and I would be retiring, she asked if we were married. If not, then we would be required to apply for separate visas.

Here is the list of documents needed for the application, which I believe is for the Visa Permanente, not the Visa Temporal.

• Fill out the visa application form.
• Apply at the Consular Section in person, Monday-Friday, except holidays.
• Original passport and one copy of the pages containing personal information, photograph of bearer, expiration date and extensions.
• One front view color passport size photo, without eyeglasses and with white background.
• Original and copy of the document that proves that the applicant is a legal resident in the USA if he/she is a foreigner.
• Payment of the consular fee: $36.00 (Exact change, Visa or Mastercard).
• Proof of economic solvency:  Original and copy of documents showing that the applicant has a bank account or investments with a balance of at least $119,865.00 US dollars after taxes during the previous 12 months,  OR,  Original and copy of documents showing that the applicant has had a pension or monthly income of $2,500.00 US dollars after taxes during the previous 6 months.

This sounds reasonable as opposed to some reports of having to provide odd-size passport photos and letters from the state police verifying no criminal record, etc, etc. There was no mention of property

ownership in Mexico, so we will be sure to bring copies of our fideicomiso and utility statements.

The only problematic issue with the new immigration laws seems to be the prohibition of foreign plated vehicles. This seems to have quite a few expats scrambling to drive their vehicles out of the country or going through the expensive process of importing their cars using a customs broker and paying the duty tax. 

This is likely what we will have to do because driving down is necessary and it would be ridiculous to enter on a tourist visa just to have a car and then have to exit the country every 6 months. The importation fee is a huge chunk of change, but I'm choosing to look at it this way. It will cost us about the same amount we pay in Virginia property taxes each year. The import tax is a one time deal.

Dreaming of Warm Tropical Breezes

Palm, Yucatán
(photo Courtesy Google Images)

While the entire Eastern Seaboard of the US is huddled, trying to stay warm in extreme cold, I can find some relief by simply viewing images of beautiful, tropical Mérida and the turquoise and azure hues of the Gulf of Mexico. Currently, outside our home in Virginia, the temperature is 30℉ (-1℃). That doesn't sound so bad, but the wind is blowing and the chill factor is likely 10-15 degrees lower. When I returned from walking the dogs this morning, my hands felt like they were on fire! I'm sure our friends (who are in Mérida as I write) have checked the weather for the NYC area. It is currently 14℉ (-10℃).
Enjoy the remaining days of your trip to the tropics, guys!

Did I mention that our home is now officially on the market? We have had one showing and the couple wants to come back for a second look. We have always had very good luck selling our homes, but of course the market is the worst in the history of our experience. Nonetheless, we have high hopes for a reasonably fast sell. Mérida is calling us for an August move. We might possibly take a few detours on our way down, ending up at Casa de Las Lechuzas in September. Warm, tropical breezes...

Beachfront, Sisal, Yucatán
(photo Courtesy Google Images)

Home, Sweet Home

Tequila and Passion...

If you are in the mood for a rather good Mexican period film, Tequila: A Story of Passion is currently available through HBO On Demand. It is a beautifully filmed and sensitively acted story of a forbidden love affair between Antonio (Unax Ugalde) and Lola (Daniela Schmidt), the beautiful wife of his uncle Vicente (Salvador Sanchez). The setting is the town of Tequila, Jalisco in 1942 and a grand tequila hacienda where Vincente is engaged in business with two gringos who are invited to stay at the hacienda until the tequila is ready for tasting. While everyone is asleep, Antonio, disguised as a worker sneaks into Lola's bedroom and stays the night. We find out a bit later in the film just why she doesn't sleep in the same room as her husband. Having stayed in Lola's bedroom until dawn, the waking workers think that Antonio is a thief and attempt to thwart his escape. He flees on his horse, but with a tragic consequence. When he returns to the hacienda the following day, having been fetched by his uncle to return to work, he is confronted with unsettling news by Milogros, the daughter of a hacienda foreman.




As the lies protecting his relationship with Lola begin to unravel, the only option is for the couple to flee the hacienda and begin a new life in the city.

Stepping Up the Timeline

We've been saying for a while now, both on the blog and to people we know, that we will be moving to Mérida in the near future. The truth is, we were never really sure when it would happen. We've both felt like we have one foot here and the other there, waiting for the stars to align, the cards to be right, or that blasted ferry to become a reality. We've come to the conclusion that the best way to move forward is to rid ourselves of a lifetime of accumulated possessions. The Tampa ferry is not going to begin operation in order to facilitate our move. In fact, it might never become a reality. We will most likely make the dreaded drive, with our animals and what few mementos we wish to keep, in one vehicle.

So, we have contacted an estate sale company and will have a three-day sale in late September. What doesn't sell will be taken to an auction house (furniture) or a thrift shop (clothes, books, and countless boxes of other stuff). We will hang on to the best of Alan's cookware, knives, and a few small keepsakes. After the sale, we will put the mostly empty house on the market staged with a bed and a few other pieces of furniture from our condo which is now rented. We don't know how fast the house will sell. It could be quickly or it could take several months. Either way, once that happens, we will have nowhere to live except that lovely little place in Mexico.

I have been feeling a bit anxious and frustrated lately, like we are stuck and not moving forward with our plans. There's most likely an element of fear in there somewhere, with questions like "How will we manage this?" "This move is going to be overwhelming." "How will we ever drive for six days with two dogs and a cat that has not been outside of our home in over 4 years?" I would like to be able to approach this in the way that I TRY to live my life -one day at a time. Perhaps, once on the road, our mantra will need to be 'one mile at a time.' If only we could teach that to the animals!

A really bad older exposure that I fiddled around with and converted to
black and white for fun...

Art -messages of hope and loss

It is not always that art and sheer genius go hand in hand.

In the case of this artist and sculptor, his work is both visually stunning and environmentally sound.

From his website:

Jason deCaires Taylor is an internationally acclaimed eco-sculptor who creates underwater living sculptures, offering viewers mysterious, ephemeral encounters and fleeting glimmers of another world where art develops from the effects of nature on the efforts of man. His site-specific, permanent installations are designed to act as artificial reefs, attracting corals, increasing marine biomass and aggregating fish species, while crucially diverting tourists away from fragile natural reefs and thus providing space for natural rejuvenation. Subject to the abstract metamorphosis of the underwater environment, his works symbolize a striking symbiosis between man and nature, balancing messages of hope and loss.


His new installation at the The Museum of Underwater Modern Art, Mexico in Cancún (Museo Subacuático de Arte) can be seen by clicking on the link below.



http://www.underwatersculpture.com/index.asp

Yaxcopoil

Once a grand hacienda, Yaxcopoil is now operated as a museum of sorts by descendants of the original owners. The grounds are dry and dusty and very little has been done to restore the buildings. For an admission price of 50 pesos, you can tour the main casa, filled with old furniture and artifacts from its heyday. The property is of a grand scale and at least one of the buildings, possibly a huge work building, was closed for viewing. Wandering through the casa can be fun, if nothing more than to take a peek at the collection of furniture and other household items. I was primarily interested in photographing architectural detail and found Hacienda Ochil and Yaxcopoil equally photogenic.

First building

Garden

View from behind a gate

Colorful and inviting

Peeking over a wall

Post and pulley

Moorish-inspired window arch

Five days and counting...

This Sunday we will begin our long overdue trip to Mérida and it will be a long day as well. We leave Norfolk International Airport ( why do regional airports call themselves 'international', when you can't fly direct to any international locations without first connecting and changing planes in a 'real' international airport?) at 0600. We arrive in Houston at 0730 and have an almost 12 hour layover before the evening flight to MID. The upside to this almost unendurable layover is that we will spend the day with Alan's brother, sister-in-law, and two nephews. It has been quite a while since we last visited, so this will be a great way to spend those 12 hours. Spending a lot of time in a busy airport seems to drain every ounce of energy from my body. Even if I read, which I find difficult to do in that environment with the constant intercom chatter and loud cellphone conversations from every direction, I can't seem to relax. I finally gave in and got the Continental Presidential Plus card, that costs an arm and a leg in annual fees, but which gains us access to the United Air Club room. There are some benefits that I hope will negate the annual fee.

First, there are complimentary beverages, breakfast and afternoon snacks, comfortable chairs, free wireless access, and newspapers and magazines, not to mention thousands fewer people. We also each get first and second checked bags free, which means we can carry an extra bag loaded with towels, sheets, and other necessities that we can find much cheaper at home. Then there is this: no exchange fees on purchases made abroad. Our last trip I was astounded when I got the Capital One statement after we had purchased a few pieces of furniture. That alone would have mostly covered the fee on the new card. The clincher is this: the first year is substantially discounted and once we are in Mérida permanently, we can simply cancel the card.

So, can you agree that I have thoroughly justified this bit of extravagance?

We are really excited about this trip. The pool should be spic and span after it is drained and scrubbed clean of mineral deposits this week. The roof will have been checked and drains cleaned. There is a painter set to paint the fachada and fountain. Jazmin will have the house spotlessly clean and the floors shining and there is a photographic excursion planned for Uxmal, Yaxcopoil, and Ochil.  We plan to see the Gulf of Mexico from the shores of Yucatán. We will enjoy some great food, relax with afternoon siestas, and hopefully see some of our new friends.

Finally.

Mexico comes to Virginia

We recently heard about an International Food Market that has opened in Norfolk. We were told that it has "everything", so we took a drive to check it out. It is an Asian-owned market, or at least it appears to be, but we were amazed at the variety of items from Mexico or Latin American countries.  For an hour or so, it seemed as if we were in our local market in the Centro. The only thing I could not find was our favorite brand of boxed milk, LaLa.
                 
                                                             (all photos from my iPhone)

There were 2 very long aisles with Latino products, mostly from Mexico
-everything you could imagine- canned goods, spices, condiments, sweets,
ground yellow corn meal of different textures, tortillas of all sizes, frozen or not,
all sorts of fruit drinks,  and yes, the REAL Coca-Cola in glass bottles made with sugar and not
high-fructose corn syrup.

The produce was as good or better than some of
our more upscale grocers and less
expensive.

 mayonesa with lime, anyone?

artichokes, tomatillas,  large green prickly things, cactus, and tons of
jalopeñas and habaneros, and limes 6 for a $.

 El Yucateco chipotle hot sauce, made in
Mérida, Yucatán
(one of a dozen or so brands)

large, beautiful, yellow, orange, red and
green peppers from Mexico- and packages of
dried leaves of all sorts, including
aguacate leaves?

The blessings and hassles of 2011

Looking back over the past year, we have been blessed in many ways. Foremost, if not as fit as we would like to be, we both are reasonably healthy as are our three animals and our extended families. We are fortunate to be in a position to have purchased a home in Mérida and begin our plans to retire as expats in Mexico. I'm not sure I like the word "expatriate." It seems to imply a renunciation of allegiance to one's country of origin, but actually refers to anyone living temporarily or permanently in another country. There is much to not like about what is going on in the United States right now, but we are not renouncing anything. We're just thrilled to have the opportunity to experience another culture in our retirement years, especially a place as culturally rich as Yucatán. Another Mérida-based blogger, My Mérida Life, posted a rather poignant piece about how their priorities have changed over the course of a single year living in Mexico.  In many ways, we have begun this process before actually getting there on a permanent basis. Resentment, anger and frustration seem to melt away more quickly.

Leonora Carrington sculpture on the Paseo de Montejo
photo January 2011 by John Bradshaw

Patience is possible. Being without a working refrigerator for a week is annoying, but we've managed fairly well with one ice chest. We've had no nighttime ice cream for a week and I think we might have shed a pound or two.  We've also been without TV service for over two weeks and despite missing the season finale of our two favorite shows, it has not been all that bad, and our dogs have loved the extra attention. Could this be the universe preparing us for our new life in a foreign country?

A special thanks to all of the "seasoned" Mérida bloggers for sharing a wealth of knowledge and experience and for offering advice, when asked, about how to best succeed in adapting to life in Mexico.  For those of you pondering a potential move to Mérida, or any place in Mexico, a good resource is Joanna Rosado's book, Magic Made in Mexico and all of the blog sites listed on my blog list.

The Royal Tour....

....of only a few of the famous sites in Mexico ( Chichen Itza and Palenque to mention two) and a few of the not-so-well known, was nonetheless a bright star for the country. In addition, it has perhaps made a 'star' of President Felipe Calderón. He comes across as a fun-loving and fearless adventurer and an admirable family man. His lovely wife and three children accompany the President and CBS travel news producer Peter Greenberg on this fast paced helicopter tour of only a few of the 31 Mexican states. I found it unusual and quite nice to see the First Lady on the ground leaning over the edge of a deep cavern taking a phone photo of her husband and Greenberg descending from a rope into the depths of this vast chasm. He manages to let Greenberg go first and yells "it was nice to know you" as he stands at the precipice looking down. Behind the business-like facade of Calderón is a great sense of humour and a great sense of pride in his country.

One of the highlights for me was a brief stop-over in Morelia, the President's hometown and where his Mother and other family members reside. It was funny when asked by Greenberg if Calderón was a good student as a young boy and she replied with the "so-so" hand gesture. You know where he gets his sense of humour.

About all we saw of the Yucatán was Chichen Itza. There was a scuba dive in a cenote, but I'm not sure where it was located. A boat ride down a river in Chiapas with a few Mayan guides led to a sacred spot probably few have ever seen.

It is too bad that the program could not have lasted another hour and we could have seen more of the vast and breathtaking vistas of Mexico. I imagine that PBS will show this during one of their frequent "pledge" drives, so there will be a lot of exposure.